夫嘉业藏书楼,南浔刘承干书楼也。书痴一生,千金散尽,藏书百万,名闻海内,天一阁叹不如也。其内中西合璧,书楼栏杆,法国造也。清帝溥仪题赠“钦若嘉业”金匾,亦不能书尽承干藏书之功。古来书痴多,贫贱者固不移,承干豪富不淫,入园必赠书,善矣。胶卷摄之,是以为记。
——自题
南浔是湖州属下一个县,与乌镇极为相近。南宋以来已是“水陆冲要之地”,所谓“耕桑之富,甲于浙右”,曾因滨浔溪河而名“浔溪”,后又因浔溪之南商贾云集,屋宇林立,而名“南林”。至淳祐十二年(1252)建镇,南林、浔溪两名各取首字,改称南浔。由于蚕丝业的兴起,明万历至清中叶南浔经济繁荣鼎盛,民初已成全国蚕丝贸易中心,有“湖州一个城,不及南浔半个镇”之说,南浔由此一跃成为江浙雄镇,富豪达数百家,俗称“四象、八牛、七十二墩狗”,有着中国近代最大的丝商群体。
与太湖北部江苏的各州县相比,湖州等地的古迹保存的极为完整,这也全拜浙江人民对古文化的保守所赐。身为江南著名古镇之一,大约是因为离上海最远,南浔或许是水乡本色保留的最好的一个。它没有当今周庄的商业气氛,也没有当今乌镇的豪华做派,有的是纤陌交通,鸡犬相闻,居民区与风景区犬牙交错,一派乡土气息。那安静的乡镇,来往的人们所带来的一米阳光气息,仿佛回到我们那快乐的童年。
南浔市镇,清流石桥,黛瓦粉墙,绿柳拂水,红桃扑面。
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406220456/e36b0d312fc23cdde53a86da027b35ac/travel/37/20100417_NX1_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406220456/ed4b15371abc8d163ada1221f4cf00d8/travel/37/20100417_NX1_004-1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406220456/8b68ac09ffdf7ca3fb6a09a364bf65eb/travel/37/20100417_NX1_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406220456/7623bfc02df6ff70e92f918225df2a6f/travel/37/20100417_NX1_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406220456/151be2d09b9f87a9d136b7b0af6c93eb/travel/37/20100417_NX1_007_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406220456/c7062eb9742903431fc94f2104eb3ddc/travel/37/20100417_NX1_009_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406220456/70a3c7d83361b5726995ad6bd8ca5125/travel/37/20100417_NX1_010_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔小莲庄,是晚清南浔“四象”之首刘镛的私家花园,始建于1885年,后经四十年的经营,由其孙刘承干于1924年建成,由家庙、义庄和园林组成,分外园、内园,环绕着长廊曲桥、楼亭阁榭。外园的主体是占地十亩的荷花池,池畔有东西合璧的“东升阁”(俗称小姐楼),内园有一座用太湖石叠成的假山,按杜牧《山行》的诗意构筑。其门口有联云:“小园新开西南角,环抱唯应风月知”,其中风雅,庸人莫知。
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406220456/a30da1b86186804f1b46595100be92ae/travel/37/20100417_NX1_013_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406220456/0d69f59630d7bd49555f083f6589695d/travel/37/20100417_NX1_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406220456/fe70004e189e136d864f960a718e363c/travel/37/20100417_NX1_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406220456/2bc56e705fc03de6adfc7b9973516094/travel/37/20100417_NX1_020_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406220456/5be69567ea04815845bcd0615454a1b3/travel/37/20100417_NX1_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406220456/62ee7cb3f6ab91d32471eb77f5c6921f/travel/37/20100417_NX1_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄拓碑](https://synyan.net/202406220456/e6ae63ef6706b2ab185e23085313bb1a/travel/37/20100417_NX1_018_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202406220456/69e2b0d53a21a108c74a69d66e2119c0/travel/37/20100417_NX1_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202406220456/a070bf8b1a47ce03d6bf61479530c836/travel/37/20100417_NX1_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木盆,想起了唐三藏](https://synyan.net/202406220456/706577fdab0ee378a44f4a02fedebe97/travel/37/20100417_NX1_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄一角](https://synyan.net/202406220456/b83cd2a11f5f470e950470102aea102d/travel/37/20100417_NX1_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![红花绿叶](https://synyan.net/202406220456/1117f92cd7efce0675265f1421e92f9a/travel/37/20100417_NX1_029_p_1-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202406220456/5837a7faabb22e0b07923568b5e9126c/travel/37/20100417_NX1_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
小莲庄内园,很有《山行》的感觉。
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202406220456/85ffa4f8533fcc7d711dd1f04280b29f/travel/37/20100417_NX1_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
太湖奇石堆砌的假山,千转百绕,怪石嶙峋,可以想象刘家的豪富。
![假山](https://synyan.net/202406220456/e36c808ac21cfa85a8392aec8df1b555/travel/37/20100417_NX1_035_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![内园](https://synyan.net/202406220456/1c2b6d9442ca6721e9868434d1c4662d/travel/37/20100417_NX1_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![假山山亭](https://synyan.net/202406220456/7b98ce1a6d89f3ab4f2e8def227790b4/travel/37/20100417_NX1_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄标志性的砖拱门](https://synyan.net/202406220456/87b1c9ad6dc1db944a5344cec27480cd/travel/37/20100417_NX1_039_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业藏书楼,“四象”之首刘镛的孙子刘承干于1920年至1924年建成,因清朝溥仪皇帝题赠“钦若嘉业”九龙金匾而得名。总体设计为中西合璧园林式布局,最盛时有藏书60万卷,共约16万册,其中不少为海内外秘籍和珍本,是江浙地区最大的私人藏书阁之一(超过宁波天一阁)。 刘承干书痴一生,千金散尽,搜得各类书籍半数百万,后全部捐献国家,千古传诵。
![嘉业藏书楼](https://synyan.net/202406220456/d2c3f329e1bba1a8ac9f7a9ffb153446/travel/37/20100417_NX2_007_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202406220456/6369c44d65efc16a8f94a72137624759/travel/37/20100417_NX2_001_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202406220456/75cc398607acb3145eb06e769bc9cdbf/travel/37/20100417_NX2_002_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
藏书楼外,有河码头。
![河码头](https://synyan.net/202406220456/4931c6eba6e2f10db4f4f89bbf16830c/travel/37/20100417_NX2_003_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内部装饰,铁栏杆都是当时法国进口的铆钉结构,栏杆花纹是对称的“嘉业堂”三字,极豪华。
![嘉业堂](https://synyan.net/202406220456/0e018768eaf6334058b2afed4174be08/travel/37/20100417_NX2_008_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内,有溥仪题词“钦若嘉业”。
![](https://synyan.net/202406220456/7b994bd1f1fbe54606f7eedc40cc1663/travel/37/20100417_NX2_011_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![诗华室](https://synyan.net/202406220456/dac810d0b6b500faf82e894c1e9ad626/travel/37/20100417_NX2_009_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
出得嘉业堂,沿着春天的河岸缓行。
![](https://synyan.net/202406220456/02699e0f1954e081e1b6e24ecd1825f4/travel/37/20100417_NX2_013_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![海棠花盛](https://synyan.net/202406220456/f0b247c7197f359154b0bc1b7095328f/travel/37/20100417_NX2_016_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
“一河两街三桥”是南浔的桥。这些被南浔的河串起的珍珠,是南浔的珍宝。
![兴福桥](https://synyan.net/202406220456/7075225de89a649bcd56a4df41fd3811/travel/37/20100417_NX3_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠桥](https://synyan.net/202406220456/9e3378c74fb7f9540e3cf2e5b51c431a/travel/37/20100417_NX3_011_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洪济桥](https://synyan.net/202406220456/ed2f04812597460dd95ec08fb8ff4330/travel/37/20100417_NX3_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![通津桥](https://synyan.net/202406220456/ce370ba6e398cfe1938a2aea69ceb490/travel/37/20100417_NX3_022_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的小吃特产,也像一块块磁石,吸引着四方的游客。
![定胜糕](https://synyan.net/202406220456/9eb98e6066b6e6c037669c85dd44505e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_014_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木棰酥](https://synyan.net/202406220456/f968327c28c4ea7661892a1c9709cb0c/travel/37/20100417_NX2_017_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![扎肉](https://synyan.net/202406220456/5d7ba6ae87942f6b4aa6f999cb0af4b1/travel/37/20100417_NX2_018_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![芡实糕](https://synyan.net/202406220456/5edb456872d3ecfe3ab39e9cf5e7a0d2/travel/37/20100417_NX3_004_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张石铭故居,乃是南浔“四象”之一张颂贤之孙张石铭所建,建于清光绪年间,占地4000多平方米,被誉为“江南第一巨宅”。宅院前面是中国传统厅堂,而后院却藏有西欧式洋楼,精美的砖雕、木雕、石雕、玻璃雕堪称“四绝”,并以绿树掩映。
![象门](https://synyan.net/202406220456/ee4cc09433c2ba7b32a1c92af610ff4a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_020_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![象门](https://synyan.net/202406220456/d26b9c259fafe2a797cbcc5bb97677c6/travel/37/20100417_NX2_022_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202406220456/7a57c2367512c2ad5b9d28802ad03feb/travel/37/20100417_NX2_023_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![宫灯](https://synyan.net/202406220456/11b5a168272b2c349ddaefcedb521271/travel/37/20100417_NX2_024_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202406220456/3646878a0e3edbd49db59dfd57a35181/travel/37/20100417_NX2_025_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202406220456/2092c5992bf1750ebaf9e85daa57d3b8/travel/37/20100417_NX2_029_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202406220456/b2530f25f6413c5ca9a23b7dd0260d9c/travel/37/20100417_NX2_030_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![庭院深深](https://synyan.net/202406220456/e6dc916998d90eb4490c3cf5a186fdca/travel/37/20100417_NX2_031_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
地面法式的鹅卵石,绿树掩映中的欧式风格,皆不足为外人道也。
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202406220456/560db3379728b51935067325c312722e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_032_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202406220456/8da735eb93ab9e71604d12910bb51a45/travel/37/20100417_NX2_033_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔,春至花开。
![春色](https://synyan.net/202406220456/f0e5d2c52b82269a7913cec269c3ab6a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_034_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![生记米行](https://synyan.net/202406220456/9d04d237f346d6b9711dd187fd77894d/travel/37/20100417_NX2_035_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![寻常百姓家](https://synyan.net/202406220456/705a0254be46c1e47f0a8ca82d54baa8/travel/37/20100417_NX2_036_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
在“水乡人家”古朴的街边小饭店歇脚,享受传统的南浔小菜。
![水乡人家](https://synyan.net/202406220456/e6440b3fc953ade73a086671735e5c85/travel/37/20100417_NX2_037_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
江南人爱吃的(甜)青菜、茭白炒肉丝、太湖螺蛳,以及南浔特产千张百叶。
![南浔小菜](https://synyan.net/202406220456/9039ba89528f1556c3c708724691e86b/travel/37/20100417_NX2_039_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
求恕里,是嘉业堂藏书楼主人刘承干于1930年所建的别墅。诚如上文所说,刘承干书痴一生,淡泊名利,不求仕进,即使到了晚年家道没落也坦然自得,以“求恕居士”自居。他在上海储书处号“求恕斋”,南浔别墅称“求恕里”。
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406220456/5079151100468d732f12ec77b8f09db2/travel/37/20100417_NX3_003_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406220456/891f916c35cd349137737c2e43045c66/travel/37/20100417_NX2_040_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406220456/033ff04d5e71254035b1678a75091cda/travel/37/20100417_NX3_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔史馆,曾被用作南浔商会,现为老干部活动所。
丝业公会,旧址位于南浔镇南东街90-91号,为南浔商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。丝市为当地最著名行业。清同治四年(1865年)即有同业组织,仿上海设立丝业公所。光绪二十八年(1902年)购地建造会馆,落成于民国元年(1912年),费银八万余元,名丝业会馆。民国5年(1916年)改称丝业公会,成为南浔镇商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。会馆的大门上,至今仍有英文书写的SILK GUILD横额。会馆大厅称“端义堂”,为抬梁式木结构,屋顶为歇山顶,高15米,用料考究,气宇轩然,是南浔现存最高的厅堂建筑,于2011年1月被列为浙江省文物保护单位。建筑前面四柱为整条长方形条石,厅内宽敞,可设宴席54桌。过去每年4月在此开“蚕王会”全镇丝业从业人员数百人,在此聚会祭蚕神,祷当年蚕事茂盛。大厅南北地坪均以大青石砌面,石上凿有各种图案。大厅南北也保存各种图案。大厅南北两侧保存着两间西式洋房,原系办公室;大门前原有一对青石狮,今移至张王庙前。会馆建筑除前屋在抗日战争时被炸毁外,其余均保护良好。
![丝业公会](https://synyan.net/202406220456/f5ac4f4d193126d006e60e85409d5050/travel/37/20100417_NX3_016_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
广惠宫,是南浔的道教圣地。
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202406220456/3a401679962372df067cd89056c4c0e1/travel/37/20100417_NX3_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202406220456/4ac6b7801177c542f920141b2e77904e/travel/37/20100417_NX3_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张静江故居。奇人张静江是南浔巨富,曾因与孙中山在舰上一席谈话而决定投身革命,无数次资助国民党,连老蒋也要拜这尊大佛。
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202406220456/f27fe26c72c7e4630f5d66a7cf6f70cb/travel/37/20100417_NX3_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202406220456/32b6a42c259d0ab8b83dbc8707ed6528/travel/37/20100417_NX3_027_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
刘氏梯号(“红房子”),是南浔“四象”之首刘镛的三子刘安泩(字渊叔,号梯青,曾赏戴花翎,为正一品封典)的居处。据史料记载,此地明时为富户庄允城所居,其子庄廷鉞曾在内建“百尺楼”为藏书读书处,清初“庄氏史案”后,刘梯青于光绪三十一年(1905)从钱氏购地筑宅,于同年冬破土,光绪三十四年(1908)竣工。此堂最独特之处在于,其中部虽为典型的中式建筑,但南、北部建筑融入西欧罗马式,地砖墙柱皆为欧式,尤其北部立面最为壮观,高敞恢宏,完全超出了其他人家欧式小楼掩掩藏藏的格局。一位乡绅能做到这样的豪华,在中国史上也不多见。这里也曾一度作为民国浙江省政府主席官邸。
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406220456/adaa58c98ac063c8f36249ed760ecdfb/travel/37/20100417_NX3_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406220456/ce44a5b85564a2c79c76e7de8c647c74/travel/37/20100417_NX3_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406220456/3193b06f386573bc6172b58aa08c3947/travel/37/20100417_NX3_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406220456/0e0ca366793086a18593c15f6297c000/travel/37/20100417_NX3_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406220456/be2618a56c0d9e6ceea062f19654c82f/travel/37/20100417_NX3_038_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的豪华让人难忘,但其实让我更难忘的,不是上面这些豪宅名人,而是南浔的街头巷尾,普通人家……
![老街](https://synyan.net/202406220456/46b93d44048685ec37b98a9f30235a99/travel/37/20100417_NX3_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![老街](https://synyan.net/202406220456/1cf7a2d777e22a522d45014dfbc8c550/travel/37/20100417_NX3_017_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洗衣妇,墙上“活画”乃南浔特产](https://synyan.net/202406220456/538b724bab8aba31d73f9c855c8f7529/travel/37/20100417_NX3_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![河岸](https://synyan.net/202406220456/3870c2b682a3061b8c20d585ebc5d45c/travel/37/20100417_NX3_021_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔老街,每颗树下都有美丽的瓦当摆成图案。
![河岸人家](https://synyan.net/202406220456/88f5dfa8ea2d081dd1ed151511162cad/travel/37/20100417_NX3_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![旧制](https://synyan.net/202406220456/508d3ad91bbf484b0aa08b88e599d0a5/travel/37/20100417_NX3_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![卖荸荠的老人](https://synyan.net/202406220456/3f5a66617a8e02672ca6327a5a992b8f/travel/37/20100417_NX3_029_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![菜不用卖了,下棋要紧](https://synyan.net/202406220456/ccfe63d27e27cef265c62010560ee76a/travel/37/20100417_NX3_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
久违了的开水房,1瓶2角,2瓶3角,用的是边角木料,环保。
![开水房](https://synyan.net/202406220456/48f3bb50d51c0b511d08324bf033fcf7/travel/37/20100417_NX3_032_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
闲适是南浔的主题,我想,这里也许是另一处桃源……
![](https://synyan.net/202406220456/aa8a7091dd42345d910346274ad1746b/travel/37/20100417_NX3_028_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嗯 有机会是去岭南乡间走的
你这好诗情画意啊~这乐配的好~
南浔,是我带儿子第一次去旅游的地方,那时他还不到一岁。我去世博会那天是30万人,但除了热门馆排的长队以外,感觉还好。
Rose:呵呵 多谢闲话:幸福的儿子啊
江南都好像。。。
可以这么说……
果然是还没有过度开发的地方啊
基本上未开发……
老虎这总有赏不完的江南。赞~!!!大爱你也听童丽的歌啊~~忽忽
我心动了 这样我秋天真应该回来一趟