夫嘉业藏书楼,南浔刘承干书楼也。书痴一生,千金散尽,藏书百万,名闻海内,天一阁叹不如也。其内中西合璧,书楼栏杆,法国造也。清帝溥仪题赠“钦若嘉业”金匾,亦不能书尽承干藏书之功。古来书痴多,贫贱者固不移,承干豪富不淫,入园必赠书,善矣。胶卷摄之,是以为记。
——自题
南浔是湖州属下一个县,与乌镇极为相近。南宋以来已是“水陆冲要之地”,所谓“耕桑之富,甲于浙右”,曾因滨浔溪河而名“浔溪”,后又因浔溪之南商贾云集,屋宇林立,而名“南林”。至淳祐十二年(1252)建镇,南林、浔溪两名各取首字,改称南浔。由于蚕丝业的兴起,明万历至清中叶南浔经济繁荣鼎盛,民初已成全国蚕丝贸易中心,有“湖州一个城,不及南浔半个镇”之说,南浔由此一跃成为江浙雄镇,富豪达数百家,俗称“四象、八牛、七十二墩狗”,有着中国近代最大的丝商群体。
与太湖北部江苏的各州县相比,湖州等地的古迹保存的极为完整,这也全拜浙江人民对古文化的保守所赐。身为江南著名古镇之一,大约是因为离上海最远,南浔或许是水乡本色保留的最好的一个。它没有当今周庄的商业气氛,也没有当今乌镇的豪华做派,有的是纤陌交通,鸡犬相闻,居民区与风景区犬牙交错,一派乡土气息。那安静的乡镇,来往的人们所带来的一米阳光气息,仿佛回到我们那快乐的童年。
南浔市镇,清流石桥,黛瓦粉墙,绿柳拂水,红桃扑面。
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202407271544/fc5c618f281d4411cdbd2c5af14ba9b7/travel/37/20100417_NX1_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202407271544/27dba296876edd136dfd3c69ad5dc5c4/travel/37/20100417_NX1_004-1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202407271544/d42935d94b836c9b0ab0d0c9cfc6f448/travel/37/20100417_NX1_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202407271544/84a60380fce54274951bb79bda9857f9/travel/37/20100417_NX1_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202407271544/11205ec9431e23daa352c51a34256c72/travel/37/20100417_NX1_007_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202407271544/604a25418ee42c7a0bfa9b98ff3dc278/travel/37/20100417_NX1_009_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202407271544/282f1d18e5a3f0c6f4a5323ee750b6c5/travel/37/20100417_NX1_010_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔小莲庄,是晚清南浔“四象”之首刘镛的私家花园,始建于1885年,后经四十年的经营,由其孙刘承干于1924年建成,由家庙、义庄和园林组成,分外园、内园,环绕着长廊曲桥、楼亭阁榭。外园的主体是占地十亩的荷花池,池畔有东西合璧的“东升阁”(俗称小姐楼),内园有一座用太湖石叠成的假山,按杜牧《山行》的诗意构筑。其门口有联云:“小园新开西南角,环抱唯应风月知”,其中风雅,庸人莫知。
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202407271544/7150b4979c470658a0c9327b22a0e0f0/travel/37/20100417_NX1_013_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202407271544/fc8f9caa409ff0f950d1df8bc0345d6a/travel/37/20100417_NX1_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202407271544/c1ba3dacb69a2dc9864fee0db3c96f43/travel/37/20100417_NX1_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202407271544/2dcd5aee9ebd662997bf921dad487b30/travel/37/20100417_NX1_020_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202407271544/8e3a3bdfd383bf83f0b032fb391db184/travel/37/20100417_NX1_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202407271544/c5dacca74624153847d2348a2b0ce245/travel/37/20100417_NX1_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄拓碑](https://synyan.net/202407271544/0eeb0073862f4f0bc0bdfc8883a4a522/travel/37/20100417_NX1_018_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202407271544/d4fb8a29257cef2e22be17bc77fdbfec/travel/37/20100417_NX1_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202407271544/7221f9fdaf8777c425d2896f39cac6e3/travel/37/20100417_NX1_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木盆,想起了唐三藏](https://synyan.net/202407271544/12a743dfb7a761665836aa3b5b49b0c1/travel/37/20100417_NX1_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄一角](https://synyan.net/202407271544/52fbae41921161e5a0ab6a854e56f448/travel/37/20100417_NX1_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![红花绿叶](https://synyan.net/202407271544/fdd8490b4654f0e6523379409c079c1c/travel/37/20100417_NX1_029_p_1-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202407271544/ef61b36dbc31b0a51217e5d2a315056d/travel/37/20100417_NX1_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
小莲庄内园,很有《山行》的感觉。
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202407271544/f34ecaae477201fd1c40116c021abad8/travel/37/20100417_NX1_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
太湖奇石堆砌的假山,千转百绕,怪石嶙峋,可以想象刘家的豪富。
![假山](https://synyan.net/202407271544/dc56cb1bd75e050a38fbf474d73f3b87/travel/37/20100417_NX1_035_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![内园](https://synyan.net/202407271544/9c0d6c712d12368fdcc93f1002da0c9f/travel/37/20100417_NX1_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![假山山亭](https://synyan.net/202407271544/b6b7b46b0dfba26ddcc66764f2a7e0f4/travel/37/20100417_NX1_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄标志性的砖拱门](https://synyan.net/202407271544/f1bfff45673e6010b3f38900fd12242b/travel/37/20100417_NX1_039_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业藏书楼,“四象”之首刘镛的孙子刘承干于1920年至1924年建成,因清朝溥仪皇帝题赠“钦若嘉业”九龙金匾而得名。总体设计为中西合璧园林式布局,最盛时有藏书60万卷,共约16万册,其中不少为海内外秘籍和珍本,是江浙地区最大的私人藏书阁之一(超过宁波天一阁)。 刘承干书痴一生,千金散尽,搜得各类书籍半数百万,后全部捐献国家,千古传诵。
![嘉业藏书楼](https://synyan.net/202407271544/211188084e92283125dcbd0ad75df504/travel/37/20100417_NX2_007_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202407271544/0c43b9f12cd78878823f4451b027a370/travel/37/20100417_NX2_001_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202407271544/c3a4b4d6f0c6296bea0d60e94fd2c58e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_002_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
藏书楼外,有河码头。
![河码头](https://synyan.net/202407271544/f2aa8d02556f8acfef4be456dd6bdb15/travel/37/20100417_NX2_003_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内部装饰,铁栏杆都是当时法国进口的铆钉结构,栏杆花纹是对称的“嘉业堂”三字,极豪华。
![嘉业堂](https://synyan.net/202407271544/e2bcf624f645afbd25283be4b057ea5b/travel/37/20100417_NX2_008_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内,有溥仪题词“钦若嘉业”。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271544/b8b92c7799b27a151ff79dbdfd3feeaa/travel/37/20100417_NX2_011_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![诗华室](https://synyan.net/202407271544/64605477b51bbcc9c68fb75b56b017f4/travel/37/20100417_NX2_009_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
出得嘉业堂,沿着春天的河岸缓行。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271544/3fea850bea57ab29257985edfeebc046/travel/37/20100417_NX2_013_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![海棠花盛](https://synyan.net/202407271544/4ecd6576e1019113c6258f9dbd1ba42f/travel/37/20100417_NX2_016_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
“一河两街三桥”是南浔的桥。这些被南浔的河串起的珍珠,是南浔的珍宝。
![兴福桥](https://synyan.net/202407271544/fcb3777830d182c20fabff76232f13c6/travel/37/20100417_NX3_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠桥](https://synyan.net/202407271544/5bcd67f1bf09bfc7237e0a2c7b03301c/travel/37/20100417_NX3_011_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洪济桥](https://synyan.net/202407271544/fca9c886f89e85048acc776165959607/travel/37/20100417_NX3_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![通津桥](https://synyan.net/202407271544/a315eb449efe6a55653e67f0192a1919/travel/37/20100417_NX3_022_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的小吃特产,也像一块块磁石,吸引着四方的游客。
![定胜糕](https://synyan.net/202407271544/226b51e521795313e53574df9de55193/travel/37/20100417_NX2_014_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木棰酥](https://synyan.net/202407271544/31ed39fd0ff8cc2c068dd6dce8d2169d/travel/37/20100417_NX2_017_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![扎肉](https://synyan.net/202407271544/ccdebc4045903ac68e35c16b62b19bec/travel/37/20100417_NX2_018_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![芡实糕](https://synyan.net/202407271544/20b103fada057ba4393ff9db903f1a16/travel/37/20100417_NX3_004_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张石铭故居,乃是南浔“四象”之一张颂贤之孙张石铭所建,建于清光绪年间,占地4000多平方米,被誉为“江南第一巨宅”。宅院前面是中国传统厅堂,而后院却藏有西欧式洋楼,精美的砖雕、木雕、石雕、玻璃雕堪称“四绝”,并以绿树掩映。
![象门](https://synyan.net/202407271544/826541926ac95b7a651240dfb0ea205d/travel/37/20100417_NX2_020_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![象门](https://synyan.net/202407271544/eedde90b1e7923ba248b9d0dc14378e8/travel/37/20100417_NX2_022_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202407271544/c16fcc0ab05c9acf93ae48499a66c309/travel/37/20100417_NX2_023_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![宫灯](https://synyan.net/202407271544/deec56e3272d660ab9cf427853941278/travel/37/20100417_NX2_024_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202407271544/6ef392fd479df760f1cd11d644cb22c1/travel/37/20100417_NX2_025_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202407271544/907525e4c8b1f30d2616b6b212569473/travel/37/20100417_NX2_029_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202407271544/307739e5d33605e80ef9e1d4968e843e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_030_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![庭院深深](https://synyan.net/202407271544/e80019f3a049fd96dad139b42746609e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_031_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
地面法式的鹅卵石,绿树掩映中的欧式风格,皆不足为外人道也。
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202407271544/3de097fc140a449a68bd939f4871ee54/travel/37/20100417_NX2_032_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202407271544/7e5c58f7b08e796a9c9e3ebd0bd2c817/travel/37/20100417_NX2_033_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔,春至花开。
![春色](https://synyan.net/202407271544/a2d008f76b934f10c3dab631be18d6d8/travel/37/20100417_NX2_034_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![生记米行](https://synyan.net/202407271544/47ff7f8382a0ee4de957f3551d4df009/travel/37/20100417_NX2_035_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![寻常百姓家](https://synyan.net/202407271544/a4b4f98c0cdb5ae6e340c209377761cb/travel/37/20100417_NX2_036_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
在“水乡人家”古朴的街边小饭店歇脚,享受传统的南浔小菜。
![水乡人家](https://synyan.net/202407271544/d8053451217672ee7f63978b04a43752/travel/37/20100417_NX2_037_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
江南人爱吃的(甜)青菜、茭白炒肉丝、太湖螺蛳,以及南浔特产千张百叶。
![南浔小菜](https://synyan.net/202407271544/6a4d0d0b242f164467fa15a76d7e6d2a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_039_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
求恕里,是嘉业堂藏书楼主人刘承干于1930年所建的别墅。诚如上文所说,刘承干书痴一生,淡泊名利,不求仕进,即使到了晚年家道没落也坦然自得,以“求恕居士”自居。他在上海储书处号“求恕斋”,南浔别墅称“求恕里”。
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202407271544/821942ca60f5a57c0b15dcf0e74a906b/travel/37/20100417_NX3_003_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202407271544/39e00dac8185df0503c753715130f906/travel/37/20100417_NX2_040_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202407271544/3349579b77f8ed4d9ca289ce0e0f6c8c/travel/37/20100417_NX3_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔史馆,曾被用作南浔商会,现为老干部活动所。
丝业公会,旧址位于南浔镇南东街90-91号,为南浔商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。丝市为当地最著名行业。清同治四年(1865年)即有同业组织,仿上海设立丝业公所。光绪二十八年(1902年)购地建造会馆,落成于民国元年(1912年),费银八万余元,名丝业会馆。民国5年(1916年)改称丝业公会,成为南浔镇商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。会馆的大门上,至今仍有英文书写的SILK GUILD横额。会馆大厅称“端义堂”,为抬梁式木结构,屋顶为歇山顶,高15米,用料考究,气宇轩然,是南浔现存最高的厅堂建筑,于2011年1月被列为浙江省文物保护单位。建筑前面四柱为整条长方形条石,厅内宽敞,可设宴席54桌。过去每年4月在此开“蚕王会”全镇丝业从业人员数百人,在此聚会祭蚕神,祷当年蚕事茂盛。大厅南北地坪均以大青石砌面,石上凿有各种图案。大厅南北也保存各种图案。大厅南北两侧保存着两间西式洋房,原系办公室;大门前原有一对青石狮,今移至张王庙前。会馆建筑除前屋在抗日战争时被炸毁外,其余均保护良好。
![丝业公会](https://synyan.net/202407271544/50e67c3472fe4927c4f8788d74c14ea0/travel/37/20100417_NX3_016_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
广惠宫,是南浔的道教圣地。
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202407271544/0a96789ed96e9a67cfc1638e811c920d/travel/37/20100417_NX3_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202407271544/b29f44b854ae52ee20905eec34d59214/travel/37/20100417_NX3_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张静江故居。奇人张静江是南浔巨富,曾因与孙中山在舰上一席谈话而决定投身革命,无数次资助国民党,连老蒋也要拜这尊大佛。
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202407271544/151b6e96496ba6bbb8ee19ee6fa41d13/travel/37/20100417_NX3_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202407271544/963d77325ecd4fb1870cdfe06f83edef/travel/37/20100417_NX3_027_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
刘氏梯号(“红房子”),是南浔“四象”之首刘镛的三子刘安泩(字渊叔,号梯青,曾赏戴花翎,为正一品封典)的居处。据史料记载,此地明时为富户庄允城所居,其子庄廷鉞曾在内建“百尺楼”为藏书读书处,清初“庄氏史案”后,刘梯青于光绪三十一年(1905)从钱氏购地筑宅,于同年冬破土,光绪三十四年(1908)竣工。此堂最独特之处在于,其中部虽为典型的中式建筑,但南、北部建筑融入西欧罗马式,地砖墙柱皆为欧式,尤其北部立面最为壮观,高敞恢宏,完全超出了其他人家欧式小楼掩掩藏藏的格局。一位乡绅能做到这样的豪华,在中国史上也不多见。这里也曾一度作为民国浙江省政府主席官邸。
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202407271544/e8d90beee6c9d2db7ead7af2ccf79635/travel/37/20100417_NX3_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202407271544/50cbfdb29b9a8e2429041addb49de2d6/travel/37/20100417_NX3_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202407271544/b17b527ca469da93eda68defd4161540/travel/37/20100417_NX3_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202407271544/4d690203f218009ae421560f89c804b2/travel/37/20100417_NX3_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202407271544/1c4cd92974b987915c5404d0756cf024/travel/37/20100417_NX3_038_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的豪华让人难忘,但其实让我更难忘的,不是上面这些豪宅名人,而是南浔的街头巷尾,普通人家……
![老街](https://synyan.net/202407271544/d88f2316447ac8360057e0393751dd86/travel/37/20100417_NX3_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![老街](https://synyan.net/202407271544/f875cc8dbb46e6b9eff3e7b4223121bb/travel/37/20100417_NX3_017_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洗衣妇,墙上“活画”乃南浔特产](https://synyan.net/202407271544/69f35ecbca335af5d81097f52ba89f62/travel/37/20100417_NX3_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![河岸](https://synyan.net/202407271544/361900716f7f294b97bad309850c2116/travel/37/20100417_NX3_021_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔老街,每颗树下都有美丽的瓦当摆成图案。
![河岸人家](https://synyan.net/202407271544/18053b1456472aba80bb3a9a2cb38675/travel/37/20100417_NX3_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![旧制](https://synyan.net/202407271544/e889f41db7447520851a0d31b5920bf8/travel/37/20100417_NX3_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![卖荸荠的老人](https://synyan.net/202407271544/92a2fc3059c4fdb5640bb55d6ce4d3d2/travel/37/20100417_NX3_029_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![菜不用卖了,下棋要紧](https://synyan.net/202407271544/d755ff0e3bf5e652e04b37af68c2643a/travel/37/20100417_NX3_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
久违了的开水房,1瓶2角,2瓶3角,用的是边角木料,环保。
![开水房](https://synyan.net/202407271544/31048a4f0f2c37c7c778183a5df5dbaa/travel/37/20100417_NX3_032_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
闲适是南浔的主题,我想,这里也许是另一处桃源……
![](https://synyan.net/202407271544/8477bac25257c7c52ebb61ddc7a54931/travel/37/20100417_NX3_028_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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