平江路在上午去的定慧寺街以北,沿平江河南北走向,南起干将东路,北接东北街,古名十泉里,是苏州最古的老街之一。今之平江路历史街区,是苏州保存最为完整的古街区,自宋以降其城坊格局变化不大。
十年来,在地图上曾不止一次的“鸟瞰”过平江路,可能因为懒惰,或没有新意,也就一直没去,今日趁着时间多,往平江路一走。
![建新巷吴宅](https://synyan.net/202407271156/ec871e4de85f9b510bc95e1a7f43f81f/travel/68326/R0000735_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
墙上涂鸦,竟然非常有道理。
![建新巷涂鸦](https://synyan.net/202407271156/02bdb78667d3ad0946b30fab0e02821a/travel/68326/R0000736_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
巷子里的老人摆出一个摊位,给路过的人们烧上个热气腾腾的萝卜丝饼。
![建新巷萝卜丝饼摊](https://synyan.net/202407271156/c6a2479b3bcc2f5241522a2e94ba6a08/travel/68326/R0000741_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
走着走着就到了思婆桥。本桥在宋《平江图》中出现过,名“寺东桥”,后又改称为思婆桥,据闻因桥东资寿寺是尼院所致。桥柱花岗石刻有“嘉庆乙丑四月”等字,为嘉庆年间重修,但桥台排柱为武康石,均为宋代式样。
![思婆桥](https://synyan.net/202407271156/7877ebe322cf648d722a419b43f8a5a5/travel/68326/R0000743_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
过思婆桥向北,便是平江路。
![平江河与平江路](https://synyan.net/202407271156/147770a2c63390a9c93187ef5867567c/travel/68326/R0000744_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![平江河](https://synyan.net/202407271156/6fe44c1d20b34342af4077d447984e5e/travel/68326/R0000746_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
走得乏,星巴克便出现了。
![平江路星巴克](https://synyan.net/202407271156/44ad512a5db72b27b83dfe6c3fec8e0f/travel/68326/R0000747_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
一大杯燕麦拿铁,是给我续命了。
![平江路星巴克燕麦拿铁](https://synyan.net/202407271156/12be3cb290a19287377840d2c09f6f06/travel/68326/R0000753_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
沙发太舒适,不久便睡着了……
![平江路星巴克](https://synyan.net/202407271156/7b4cb3d60e082794d78b5cc3e5674b93/travel/68326/R0000757_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
醒来一瞧,一个小时过去了……
出门,对岸“遇见平江路”,便成了本文标题灵感的来源。
![遇见平江路](https://synyan.net/202407271156/a069f9ed3b9bdcff6efc129eb1babef5/travel/68326/R0000748_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
高宅大院,斑驳粉墙,森山大道模式有了用武之地。
![高宅大院](https://synyan.net/202407271156/b5c30309259412174d2d3c7f97d4b294/travel/68326/R0000769_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![聆韵社](https://synyan.net/202407271156/19cb3659a341606662f381f2274643c2/travel/68326/R0000775_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
对岸凤池弄8-1,有一家街边小吃“苏香记卤味小吃”,是几位老阿姨开的。并非餐点,老阿姨们无聊的等着生意。
![苏香记卤味小吃](https://synyan.net/202407271156/661151c4b5fe26b845f72e9d42764523/travel/68326/R0000778_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
前方有“雪糕桥”,始建宋代。“二十四孝”中有张姓孝子家贫断粮,无奈抟雪为糕,以奉母亲的佳话。
![雪糕桥](https://synyan.net/202407271156/3bb4f16fa5cae364877340da5c9d717e/travel/68326/R0000783_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![平江路打卡点](https://synyan.net/202407271156/07c9e6fb22b84cec3177ecbd3b9df01c/travel/68326/R0000789_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![大宅](https://synyan.net/202407271156/62b54621aff1d5a1ef521cbfb09fe9e9/travel/68326/R0000792_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![街角](https://synyan.net/202407271156/5fad1a7a8627d46c925f5abdd5b486f9/travel/68326/R0000801_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![糖葫芦](https://synyan.net/202407271156/e465a3782a4efb2c5190285606fd4538/travel/68326/R0000803_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![手摇船](https://synyan.net/202407271156/bab7a4fe3aa3a07a82c50c5c89111ee9/travel/68326/R0000805_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![冰箱贴](https://synyan.net/202407271156/921dd74c43e20ff423ba0cef404ff33d/travel/68326/R0000806_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![华灯](https://synyan.net/202407271156/a12c5c584d215c4fa21cb03a72b02a10/travel/68326/R0000809_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
进苏扇博物馆转了一圈。扇子精巧,价格合适。
![苏扇](https://synyan.net/202407271156/ce68cdd98457dedee04666f9b5a8bcb6/travel/68326/R0000810_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小巷](https://synyan.net/202407271156/6224613a5ee997a952fbaf9ee82e3b11/travel/68326/R0000814_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
众安桥与小新桥,是平江河上唯一的L型双桥。目前的桥构件大多为古代遗物。
![众安桥俯瞰](https://synyan.net/202407271156/bd82a17696d2b543421c24f0c59ae5ad/travel/68326/R0000818_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
悬桥河,是与平江河相交的一条小河。河上古桥众多。
![顾家桥](https://synyan.net/202407271156/5bbf02e20e599b92b5453cd11589133a/travel/68326/R0000827_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
黄丕烈藏书楼,建于道光十二年,“百宋一廛”藏书楼故址。黄丕烈(1763-1825年),苏州人,清代著名藏书家、目录学家。乾隆五十三年(1788年)举人,官主事,嘉庆六年(1801年)发往直隶知县不就,专治学、藏书。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271156/4eb999d9d4e06d882de92b98ac61332c/travel/68326/R0000830_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![桂花鸡头米和萝卜丝饼](https://synyan.net/202407271156/af6be7ace69aec109e3c047795e40439/travel/68326/R0000834_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小桥](https://synyan.net/202407271156/305af962c4f8c57ba0b14b2ea1c951e3/travel/68326/R0000837_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![悬桥巷](https://synyan.net/202407271156/6599b2ef2a90dbdc67e8a0de7dda5227/travel/68326/R0000839_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
方嘉谟故居,建于晚清时。方嘉谟是清末民初苏州有名的西医专家。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271156/92eea01d172faeb448df1c96fd507cd5/travel/68326/R0000842_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![悬桥河](https://synyan.net/202407271156/1a7ee763168ce8c2020a5ef348d6b106/travel/68326/R0000845_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
回到平江路,沿街小店,熙熙攘攘。
![平江路小店](https://synyan.net/202407271156/91e425d9fe8f0f6c566bb7b119e9a5ed/travel/68326/R0000850_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![大宅](https://synyan.net/202407271156/e8d91b2b8da1ffab6da1ee67125ec5a3/travel/68326/R0000851_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![手摇船](https://synyan.net/202407271156/16c6454df2642e70e4f0204428799c95/travel/68326/R0000853_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
一只花猫,扑向路边坐着的锦衣卫与丫鬟。这么神奇的手势,能否也教我一下。
![花猫](https://synyan.net/202407271156/22f230246f308415227fd72d58640d8a/travel/68326/R0000855_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
苏州汉服爱好者众多,路边几乎充斥。
![汉服](https://synyan.net/202407271156/328c4f1ce2f4e9704b788bd25b626413/travel/68326/R0000859_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![汉服](https://synyan.net/202407271156/66a93a75b6a67011d0cfec9752d7de3d/travel/68326/R0000867_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![三吴亭](https://synyan.net/202407271156/852ab2e7bc6fdf8eb80b49f16971f8fc/travel/68326/R0000861_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![大宅](https://synyan.net/202407271156/4323b6b48a82e1f5127cde53248f494f/travel/68326/R0000864_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
路人纷纷驻足,转身一看,撸猫馆屋檐上,两支肥猫无聊的走来走去。
![撸猫馆](https://synyan.net/202407271156/95f4224c6371208e2987a24f3085e29d/travel/68326/R0000865_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
饿了,来点苏泓祥的古法蛋卷。
![古法蛋卷](https://synyan.net/202407271156/2d359e02ea8ec153184bb433284b2b02/travel/68326/R0000869_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![桂香村](https://synyan.net/202407271156/82c46f2bdede9db04fd495365b0495da/travel/68326/R0000872_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
连老婆饼也有这么多名堂,钱包是保不住了。
![老婆饼](https://synyan.net/202407271156/a1cc619eddd8e818f7064968a0e599bf/travel/68326/R0000871_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
一包蛋卷哪里够,往前继续汤包馆。
![本土香汤包馆](https://synyan.net/202407271156/062ff68aeeab9212d37d60125a7768f2/travel/68326/R0000875_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![本土香汤包馆](https://synyan.net/202407271156/94ecba0c47396757e0f6a26af38f6452/travel/68326/R0000877_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
一碗小馄饨,放了许多胡椒。
![特色鲜肉小馄饨](https://synyan.net/202407271156/3d8a65b0c3ed5a636cb8d4e19eacedc2/travel/68326/R0000879_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
招牌蟹黄汤包,一包汤是很好喝,但包子本身真不如我锡。
![招牌蟹黄汤包](https://synyan.net/202407271156/4bc6012102226094874021248c234bf4/travel/68326/R0000880_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
饭饱出门,夜色渐浓。
![游客中心](https://synyan.net/202407271156/f094fd4a7abc0c12c4ef4d1f9c2d678c/travel/68326/R0000882_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
大宅内汉服店橘黄的灯光,若明若暗向对岸招徕生意。
![汉服店](https://synyan.net/202407271156/ece229a54c8fef208fa12580c66f711e/travel/68326/R0000884_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
胡厢使桥是平江路唯一拱式单孔古石桥,也是苏州城内仅存的七座古石桥之一。整体构件均为宋代遗物。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271156/5f46d10b2f94f6052f6bf52881c7887b/travel/68326/R0000885_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271156/36d4f85d5634d3b0f6d673575e719721/travel/68326/R0000889_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![三吴亭夜色](https://synyan.net/202407271156/9d3979b7b7a595d3392223c558d1f1cc/travel/68326/R0000887_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
夜色静谧,河流清澈。不多的岸边水草,也是干干净净,必为苏州政府用心点缀之作。
![小河](https://synyan.net/202407271156/f1e5e513ec592cd19a2fec56efb8f699/travel/68326/R0000896_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![苏扇博物馆](https://synyan.net/202407271156/35ae54fe45116309af5b3a0a5b94ec71/travel/68326/R0000898_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![平江随园](https://synyan.net/202407271156/98bd4d29ba4556ffac677c64f187699f/travel/68326/R0000899_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
太多的汉服美女走入大街,相机的反应和品质非常重要。
![汉服美女](https://synyan.net/202407271156/103a1ff8f0775329e47bb5c6d2b98f50/travel/68326/R0000901_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![汉服美女](https://synyan.net/202407271156/2a62ae2474bb2a3ee43022d9a40aacd3/travel/68326/R0000914_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
古典一点也有,昆曲老演员签名。
![伏羲会馆昆曲](https://synyan.net/202407271156/173907334520f3f32142651acb6fb8ab/travel/68326/R0000903_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
平江河两边,不少评弹茶座,宣扬着苏州的文化。相比而言,无锡这方面做得很差。
![伏羲会馆](https://synyan.net/202407271156/cb6933e7cb5be8569cbbc426b811fe31/travel/68326/R0000907_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![评弹茶座](https://synyan.net/202407271156/032704536608f26908fb70064e2ce2c2/travel/68326/R0000908_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
青石桥,旧称众善桥,原为宋桥,1960年改为平板桥,2005年12月恢复拱桥。
![青石桥](https://synyan.net/202407271156/8caa374683a372e2451c2cdb43e0f25e/travel/68326/R0000912_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
桥下,众皆忙碌。
![快递员](https://synyan.net/202407271156/84098527ba10810b51f2f335fa9ff68d/travel/68326/R0000909_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![翰尔洪登记](https://synyan.net/202407271156/79abc4e0d220a53828c7d230d169a9bf/travel/68326/R0000916_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![翰尔园](https://synyan.net/202407271156/372d5024c662ca34df9797c9b4ececef/travel/68326/R0000920_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
下午时冷清的苏香记卤味菜馆,已有两桌客人。老阿姨们挺忙碌。
![苏香记卤味菜馆](https://synyan.net/202407271156/93c91a7b216c1bddacc680d7b6e5c0f5/travel/68326/R0000923_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
而星巴克对岸的遇见平江路,也点上了华灯。
![遇见平江路](https://synyan.net/202407271156/46a039a43c338d6c9ff6e595bb030b58/travel/68326/R0000925_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
走着走着就回到了思婆桥。
![思婆桥](https://synyan.net/202407271156/bb7266e0563961db669a9cf93d8c6537/travel/68326/R0000927_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
晚来的妹子们,谢谢你们盛装入镜。
![民服美女](https://synyan.net/202407271156/9e4848780079abef1e6634949f2c26ca/travel/68326/R0000928_resize.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
行程:
没记错的话,平江路上有不少家卖卤鸡爪的吧,此前数次在苏州走亲访友,似乎买过几次,遍览文中图片竟然没有看到。
@飞刀博客这是我的问题,本人从不吃鸡爪。
一别苏州二十一年,最后一次1999年秋,坐1.8吨小卡车,早晨七点多从苏州城东到唐伯虎墓地门前过去右拐一路向北到312国道。什么路名什么地段完全没有概念了。
@行吟游子竟然记得如此细致
和前男友去过一次
@狡猾的小猫咪前男友表示欣慰
离上次去平江路已有3、4年了,怀念在苏州实习的日子。
@威言威语怀念的话找机会再去。
看到第一张图感觉有点时曾相识的感觉,翻到第四,五张的时候就确定了,我也去过,不过你的照片拍出来更好看。
@哥斯拉谢谢
前不久逛来逛去找到了你这位宝藏博主,我本人近期也是刚来苏州实习,住的地方恰好就在平江历史街道里面,今天想起来这网站康康,正巧就看见你来了平江,可能这就是缘分吧,有句话叫相见不相识,相遇两不知,觉得可能在那天的某个瞬间就已经见过了,不过说实话里面的东西真吃不起,不知道隔壁的观前街你去了没去,那里晚上人贼多
@哗哗感谢评论。观前街没去,天太冷了而且想着赶回去。以后天好再去逛。
去苏州的第一站就是平江路,乘着手划船,在中午炎热没有太多人的时候却突然感受到了一种宁静。
@Din耳畔是摇橹船的吱嘎声,周遭一切便显得格外安静。
萝卜丝饼!!!!天,还有蟹黄汤包,还有小馄饨……我真不该在这个时候来看的。。。
@Sherry哈哈,新年快乐