夫嘉业藏书楼,南浔刘承干书楼也。书痴一生,千金散尽,藏书百万,名闻海内,天一阁叹不如也。其内中西合璧,书楼栏杆,法国造也。清帝溥仪题赠“钦若嘉业”金匾,亦不能书尽承干藏书之功。古来书痴多,贫贱者固不移,承干豪富不淫,入园必赠书,善矣。胶卷摄之,是以为记。
——自题
南浔是湖州属下一个县,与乌镇极为相近。南宋以来已是“水陆冲要之地”,所谓“耕桑之富,甲于浙右”,曾因滨浔溪河而名“浔溪”,后又因浔溪之南商贾云集,屋宇林立,而名“南林”。至淳祐十二年(1252)建镇,南林、浔溪两名各取首字,改称南浔。由于蚕丝业的兴起,明万历至清中叶南浔经济繁荣鼎盛,民初已成全国蚕丝贸易中心,有“湖州一个城,不及南浔半个镇”之说,南浔由此一跃成为江浙雄镇,富豪达数百家,俗称“四象、八牛、七十二墩狗”,有着中国近代最大的丝商群体。
与太湖北部江苏的各州县相比,湖州等地的古迹保存的极为完整,这也全拜浙江人民对古文化的保守所赐。身为江南著名古镇之一,大约是因为离上海最远,南浔或许是水乡本色保留的最好的一个。它没有当今周庄的商业气氛,也没有当今乌镇的豪华做派,有的是纤陌交通,鸡犬相闻,居民区与风景区犬牙交错,一派乡土气息。那安静的乡镇,来往的人们所带来的一米阳光气息,仿佛回到我们那快乐的童年。
南浔市镇,清流石桥,黛瓦粉墙,绿柳拂水,红桃扑面。
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231046/aeb5cc0d5bb7b608848541df4823994d/travel/37/20100417_NX1_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231046/ed7bd688c6f7a0dc54b85d99e672c098/travel/37/20100417_NX1_004-1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231046/167bdfb09510e05a261126803005fff2/travel/37/20100417_NX1_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231046/eb2b58b305db63fae508dfb0b9bbed44/travel/37/20100417_NX1_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406231046/e077d0fa4699243ec165dec60d66938e/travel/37/20100417_NX1_007_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406231046/f78cf88ccd425681055452129e765931/travel/37/20100417_NX1_009_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406231046/81fba08a35994c71caf90fa0bf228878/travel/37/20100417_NX1_010_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔小莲庄,是晚清南浔“四象”之首刘镛的私家花园,始建于1885年,后经四十年的经营,由其孙刘承干于1924年建成,由家庙、义庄和园林组成,分外园、内园,环绕着长廊曲桥、楼亭阁榭。外园的主体是占地十亩的荷花池,池畔有东西合璧的“东升阁”(俗称小姐楼),内园有一座用太湖石叠成的假山,按杜牧《山行》的诗意构筑。其门口有联云:“小园新开西南角,环抱唯应风月知”,其中风雅,庸人莫知。
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406231046/8f5e20ad28e6bc433106b3df3d08eddd/travel/37/20100417_NX1_013_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406231046/7832169e95b46ab75f41882fddc49181/travel/37/20100417_NX1_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406231046/c1b9e6e4ef7edec2b15fb1a352223107/travel/37/20100417_NX1_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406231046/668f7d3c38acfea17af2c8ea10424c4f/travel/37/20100417_NX1_020_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406231046/f1acc39da9176a8a0fa2e0358c917f47/travel/37/20100417_NX1_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406231046/5bf288ac8182a0b9707d6eea00ab8bc0/travel/37/20100417_NX1_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄拓碑](https://synyan.net/202406231046/37f2e9e79b76aca436d2d9b089032c20/travel/37/20100417_NX1_018_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202406231046/920a91222db10b9c9b2d29b3f1c5d702/travel/37/20100417_NX1_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202406231046/755d05ea5fca15b130fcbcecb082030f/travel/37/20100417_NX1_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木盆,想起了唐三藏](https://synyan.net/202406231046/5815636313347711bfa1e9ff1db49cae/travel/37/20100417_NX1_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄一角](https://synyan.net/202406231046/149235f5615db563becf76cec7c52f7f/travel/37/20100417_NX1_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![红花绿叶](https://synyan.net/202406231046/6fa512de2a15d7f71c05bc0ea89a7409/travel/37/20100417_NX1_029_p_1-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202406231046/bc274595bcb35ed30e1db77a49808ae5/travel/37/20100417_NX1_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
小莲庄内园,很有《山行》的感觉。
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202406231046/0766ec71244d5621789fe032d25996de/travel/37/20100417_NX1_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
太湖奇石堆砌的假山,千转百绕,怪石嶙峋,可以想象刘家的豪富。
![假山](https://synyan.net/202406231046/e8dd0f4ae982791e70d33baa95fdb31b/travel/37/20100417_NX1_035_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![内园](https://synyan.net/202406231046/48f35074bd63128af1710a6a1264dde3/travel/37/20100417_NX1_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![假山山亭](https://synyan.net/202406231046/4ed35c5f30b751abdf6a9bf09e37d5d8/travel/37/20100417_NX1_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄标志性的砖拱门](https://synyan.net/202406231046/9bc5554011fe2357c3a51378536731f8/travel/37/20100417_NX1_039_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业藏书楼,“四象”之首刘镛的孙子刘承干于1920年至1924年建成,因清朝溥仪皇帝题赠“钦若嘉业”九龙金匾而得名。总体设计为中西合璧园林式布局,最盛时有藏书60万卷,共约16万册,其中不少为海内外秘籍和珍本,是江浙地区最大的私人藏书阁之一(超过宁波天一阁)。 刘承干书痴一生,千金散尽,搜得各类书籍半数百万,后全部捐献国家,千古传诵。
![嘉业藏书楼](https://synyan.net/202406231046/2169298376862c2405673e6d301138e9/travel/37/20100417_NX2_007_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202406231046/189045e07f058a4fcb9b4f6c167957f7/travel/37/20100417_NX2_001_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202406231046/1d5c4c8e207437b8783de9f2d5d48606/travel/37/20100417_NX2_002_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
藏书楼外,有河码头。
![河码头](https://synyan.net/202406231046/fcce7621d120a55529c4633691338802/travel/37/20100417_NX2_003_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内部装饰,铁栏杆都是当时法国进口的铆钉结构,栏杆花纹是对称的“嘉业堂”三字,极豪华。
![嘉业堂](https://synyan.net/202406231046/6ff9a463ee154956aa170bbd2c9c180d/travel/37/20100417_NX2_008_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内,有溥仪题词“钦若嘉业”。
![](https://synyan.net/202406231046/b9e40a9c8b41e76f4bdb47d08468653a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_011_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![诗华室](https://synyan.net/202406231046/c0f7b212d912ce65d2682bdc6da4fe48/travel/37/20100417_NX2_009_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
出得嘉业堂,沿着春天的河岸缓行。
![](https://synyan.net/202406231046/349280be1e9ae940bbb128d88cdbecd1/travel/37/20100417_NX2_013_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![海棠花盛](https://synyan.net/202406231046/54476fd4dbeceb9ecf81e0fbd8e40e04/travel/37/20100417_NX2_016_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
“一河两街三桥”是南浔的桥。这些被南浔的河串起的珍珠,是南浔的珍宝。
![兴福桥](https://synyan.net/202406231046/5453fb0b72d0199620c60deeaea2b270/travel/37/20100417_NX3_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠桥](https://synyan.net/202406231046/c3d830d9055e8dfbf33d5e84498d5a06/travel/37/20100417_NX3_011_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洪济桥](https://synyan.net/202406231046/e4a2c3df52a13fde2bea4a9df09939c7/travel/37/20100417_NX3_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![通津桥](https://synyan.net/202406231046/ed101579e9266746418ce46f276e6736/travel/37/20100417_NX3_022_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的小吃特产,也像一块块磁石,吸引着四方的游客。
![定胜糕](https://synyan.net/202406231046/226669be7cf2cf8bc4fe8dac992b6721/travel/37/20100417_NX2_014_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木棰酥](https://synyan.net/202406231046/c2f342f2d213529de8fa9fa8527b78a6/travel/37/20100417_NX2_017_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![扎肉](https://synyan.net/202406231046/49271ec40a9ae953b75ccc84d8503aaf/travel/37/20100417_NX2_018_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![芡实糕](https://synyan.net/202406231046/f4320d0a7660ed962f38ea2ffb2b8cb1/travel/37/20100417_NX3_004_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张石铭故居,乃是南浔“四象”之一张颂贤之孙张石铭所建,建于清光绪年间,占地4000多平方米,被誉为“江南第一巨宅”。宅院前面是中国传统厅堂,而后院却藏有西欧式洋楼,精美的砖雕、木雕、石雕、玻璃雕堪称“四绝”,并以绿树掩映。
![象门](https://synyan.net/202406231046/d0799df1b3ef4f748e4ac3a6f074411f/travel/37/20100417_NX2_020_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![象门](https://synyan.net/202406231046/00105f6c669498a0b6edf88074961e5a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_022_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202406231046/fc5ca236b0e319e4f6eabe4247420e0c/travel/37/20100417_NX2_023_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![宫灯](https://synyan.net/202406231046/617d421244149a41c09cc9b0ddab9a22/travel/37/20100417_NX2_024_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202406231046/e23b482c66f130980c84ac17b8d33f48/travel/37/20100417_NX2_025_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202406231046/e53b47fd08a95b6c06c0137021bda014/travel/37/20100417_NX2_029_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202406231046/f4251b8192fbec0cbab40c43ca177ba7/travel/37/20100417_NX2_030_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![庭院深深](https://synyan.net/202406231046/803c0751d1d6bca5e42d62372b72ea85/travel/37/20100417_NX2_031_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
地面法式的鹅卵石,绿树掩映中的欧式风格,皆不足为外人道也。
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202406231046/db726d63030db16c3f8f2280c80a8cd6/travel/37/20100417_NX2_032_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202406231046/e11ee111036b7094a1db0ad95a1a03d8/travel/37/20100417_NX2_033_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔,春至花开。
![春色](https://synyan.net/202406231046/1fb02a986c399739d3a07d139e121b31/travel/37/20100417_NX2_034_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![生记米行](https://synyan.net/202406231046/64e974a68f1d9ab8d01070a340072e9f/travel/37/20100417_NX2_035_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![寻常百姓家](https://synyan.net/202406231046/5b80bee319c05f1354ddf0605222a4da/travel/37/20100417_NX2_036_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
在“水乡人家”古朴的街边小饭店歇脚,享受传统的南浔小菜。
![水乡人家](https://synyan.net/202406231046/94f647922cc8a3e6fc2611df1729ed39/travel/37/20100417_NX2_037_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
江南人爱吃的(甜)青菜、茭白炒肉丝、太湖螺蛳,以及南浔特产千张百叶。
![南浔小菜](https://synyan.net/202406231046/6729748359bac47654bcc12e10aa1673/travel/37/20100417_NX2_039_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
求恕里,是嘉业堂藏书楼主人刘承干于1930年所建的别墅。诚如上文所说,刘承干书痴一生,淡泊名利,不求仕进,即使到了晚年家道没落也坦然自得,以“求恕居士”自居。他在上海储书处号“求恕斋”,南浔别墅称“求恕里”。
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406231046/4097863f62d0e6cac2940556874c79e7/travel/37/20100417_NX3_003_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406231046/62ba661c179c5872aa5d8f91aeea7a9e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_040_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406231046/c90cb25b3b3aa06a61c8d0ceacad5fc2/travel/37/20100417_NX3_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔史馆,曾被用作南浔商会,现为老干部活动所。
丝业公会,旧址位于南浔镇南东街90-91号,为南浔商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。丝市为当地最著名行业。清同治四年(1865年)即有同业组织,仿上海设立丝业公所。光绪二十八年(1902年)购地建造会馆,落成于民国元年(1912年),费银八万余元,名丝业会馆。民国5年(1916年)改称丝业公会,成为南浔镇商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。会馆的大门上,至今仍有英文书写的SILK GUILD横额。会馆大厅称“端义堂”,为抬梁式木结构,屋顶为歇山顶,高15米,用料考究,气宇轩然,是南浔现存最高的厅堂建筑,于2011年1月被列为浙江省文物保护单位。建筑前面四柱为整条长方形条石,厅内宽敞,可设宴席54桌。过去每年4月在此开“蚕王会”全镇丝业从业人员数百人,在此聚会祭蚕神,祷当年蚕事茂盛。大厅南北地坪均以大青石砌面,石上凿有各种图案。大厅南北也保存各种图案。大厅南北两侧保存着两间西式洋房,原系办公室;大门前原有一对青石狮,今移至张王庙前。会馆建筑除前屋在抗日战争时被炸毁外,其余均保护良好。
![丝业公会](https://synyan.net/202406231046/77a138c6be2ebdb53d74b769ba1fc470/travel/37/20100417_NX3_016_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
广惠宫,是南浔的道教圣地。
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202406231046/19a7c2b189486e08bd0048a076b175e0/travel/37/20100417_NX3_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202406231046/e86592b19a9ffcf2b0ed97bd318b7d70/travel/37/20100417_NX3_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张静江故居。奇人张静江是南浔巨富,曾因与孙中山在舰上一席谈话而决定投身革命,无数次资助国民党,连老蒋也要拜这尊大佛。
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202406231046/da576d58f9986f1be9b256e009f201a1/travel/37/20100417_NX3_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202406231046/32f4e85781077120d807077532aee644/travel/37/20100417_NX3_027_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
刘氏梯号(“红房子”),是南浔“四象”之首刘镛的三子刘安泩(字渊叔,号梯青,曾赏戴花翎,为正一品封典)的居处。据史料记载,此地明时为富户庄允城所居,其子庄廷鉞曾在内建“百尺楼”为藏书读书处,清初“庄氏史案”后,刘梯青于光绪三十一年(1905)从钱氏购地筑宅,于同年冬破土,光绪三十四年(1908)竣工。此堂最独特之处在于,其中部虽为典型的中式建筑,但南、北部建筑融入西欧罗马式,地砖墙柱皆为欧式,尤其北部立面最为壮观,高敞恢宏,完全超出了其他人家欧式小楼掩掩藏藏的格局。一位乡绅能做到这样的豪华,在中国史上也不多见。这里也曾一度作为民国浙江省政府主席官邸。
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231046/eda66227c6c34c470807825c05779d0e/travel/37/20100417_NX3_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231046/74c059517fb88aa43fb8cadd32ab4500/travel/37/20100417_NX3_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231046/ed8034b5e138422ed086e614cb6cf3f6/travel/37/20100417_NX3_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231046/40bc62400ab449f91dc0fa2acf4133a7/travel/37/20100417_NX3_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231046/9cadfa4b035aa7d748b4699603f82b44/travel/37/20100417_NX3_038_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的豪华让人难忘,但其实让我更难忘的,不是上面这些豪宅名人,而是南浔的街头巷尾,普通人家……
![老街](https://synyan.net/202406231046/c692ac38d9b0de7e033f24c2c3ed61d9/travel/37/20100417_NX3_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![老街](https://synyan.net/202406231046/2ec460f7c23e8770b2d1d282d4af7524/travel/37/20100417_NX3_017_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洗衣妇,墙上“活画”乃南浔特产](https://synyan.net/202406231046/9d905c2ed35938cd31dc7359370db763/travel/37/20100417_NX3_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![河岸](https://synyan.net/202406231046/b7e9d41326f58ed05cf9ce5517c428c2/travel/37/20100417_NX3_021_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔老街,每颗树下都有美丽的瓦当摆成图案。
![河岸人家](https://synyan.net/202406231046/c26075d061944d3a9779576c5d903aa2/travel/37/20100417_NX3_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![旧制](https://synyan.net/202406231046/589aca02cbfea628fe89d539f0a1c38e/travel/37/20100417_NX3_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![卖荸荠的老人](https://synyan.net/202406231046/9b4fe7bdae54c6f09b8506b08c5de142/travel/37/20100417_NX3_029_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![菜不用卖了,下棋要紧](https://synyan.net/202406231046/adb1417dff165e80e9a88055f533d8b6/travel/37/20100417_NX3_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
久违了的开水房,1瓶2角,2瓶3角,用的是边角木料,环保。
![开水房](https://synyan.net/202406231046/8d3a31865e3a927a2c898f63b3d49bc5/travel/37/20100417_NX3_032_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
闲适是南浔的主题,我想,这里也许是另一处桃源……
![](https://synyan.net/202406231046/23280e09751b86fceaba80564d831148/travel/37/20100417_NX3_028_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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