瘦西湖
[清] 汪沆
垂杨不断接残芜,雁齿红桥俨画图。
也是销金一锅子,故应唤作瘦西湖。
融南秀北雄为一体的扬州瘦西湖,原本为城内一条宽阔的河流,隋唐已有建园,清代几经盐商扩展,有“园林之盛,甲于天下”之誉,极盛时期沿湖有二十四景:卷石洞天、西园曲水、虹桥览胜、冶春诗社、长堤春柳、荷浦薰风、碧玉交流、四桥烟雨、春台明月、白塔晴云、三过流淙、蜀岗晚照、万松叠翠、花屿双泉、双峰云栈、山亭野眺、临水红霞、绿稻香来、竹市小楼、平岗艳雪、绿杨城廓、香海慈云、梅岭春生、水云胜概,所谓“两岸花柳全依水,一路楼台直到山”。而“瘦西湖”之名,便引自汪沆诗。
4月30日,假期的第一天,客房已满转战另一个旅馆,然后悠闲地提前买好回程车票,待向瘦西湖进发已近中午。游人摩肩接踵,天气赤日炎炎,但却没有阻碍我们游玩的兴致。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/9b43b6c7eac9f83e4eda15540d5f372e/travel/5990/DSC05292_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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未入园,已见亭台。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/ae054fa02e00bb8ae92315a0b5965351/travel/5990/DSC05307_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
扬州特产木锤酥。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/bfb213da97b129c9977db0635cc6f663/travel/5990/DSC05309_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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沿街瓜果商贩,赚得瓢盆钵满。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/bf2b0cd0910724ea337f0b6d754a1b92/travel/5990/DSC05313_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
入得园子。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/882fded960e1d1e88235a3292f4ecfed/travel/5990/DSC05317_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
长堤春柳,真州陈重庆书。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/e4b7e4c1993e2c1f6085bab11db4e641/travel/5990/DSC05318_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
树木砌成龙船。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/a9e95ef29cff7b256907bf09be6989b2/travel/5990/DSC05331_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
“两岸花柳全依水,一路楼台直到山”的花柳依水,可惜桃花已谢,否则更具风情。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/253dc63666187d3f3541b50a255dd434/travel/5990/DSC05336_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/b6627f689a69bf4dee7d37da0ff1c298/travel/5990/DSC05337_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
扬州市花——美丽的琼花。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/db89ac986c3cf8bfb7a83e82745c0443/travel/5990/DSC05333_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
徐园建于1915年,乃园中有园,构筑于原桃花坞旧址,为祠祭民初军阀徐宝山的私家园林,为求文人吉亮工的墨宝,军阀门人设计骗写“清風徐來,春色滿園”,但被识破,不过吉先生也很聪明,并不点破,将“徐”写为行书,“園”写为草书;而且“徐”字是错字,“園”写得像是园子里有老虎,意喻只能在自家园子里称霸。这两字就这样不伦不类的挂了上去,倒是别有风味。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/034c1c41f0b1821bd2cddf20c4ff38b4/travel/5990/DSC05343_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
徐园内亭台楼阁,一汪碧潭,荷花满池。正对的是听鹂馆。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/2fcf3b150245429dce98ffd9c0a8eac8/travel/5990/DSC05347_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
河对岸便是趣园。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/1d5774f78c79fe74b3984db2078eb228/travel/5990/DSC05349_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
听鹂馆,以及门前的大铁镬。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/8c4242265c9ad0905ee8fbb93ad15555/travel/5990/DSC05351_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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听鹂馆内美丽的百合花。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/c1950bcd0fc427b50bca1472965bf06d/travel/5990/DSC05362_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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通向小金山的红桥。小金山是为了乾隆南巡游玩疏通河道而挖的泥沙堆砌而成的四米假山。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/d1b8495ba0ebfbdbf93623cb8202e3fe/travel/5990/DSC05373_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/c91bc0eaf0e68156cb983629ac2aad49/travel/5990/DSC05374_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
小金山,“两岸花柳全依水,一路楼台直到山”的“直到山”便是此。门口有一对江南笑狮很是有名。《望江南百调》里这样描述小金山道:“扬州好,入画小金山。亭榭高低风月胜,柳桃错杂水波环,此地既仙寰。”
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/bff1a7b297b01ea8f3a48299cb98b2b5/travel/5990/DSC05380_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
庭中有联:“弹指皆空,玉局可曾留带去;如拳不大,金山也肯过江来。”暗喻对岸镇江的名山金山也被借过来了。门口的钟乳奇石则是宋代花石纲遗物,是宋徽宗自广西向开封府运送花石纲过程中遗留下来的。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/6d9a5468c4aaa63afff25e536a6a8ed6/travel/5990/DSC05381_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/49b8cb4f3b0519fa97e238ad0c601fd3/travel/5990/DSC05382_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/65bc49e988de1b9b639b86027e7dff97/travel/5990/DSC05384_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
小金山关帝庙外遒劲的苍松掩映风亭。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/a58b6d0088f6b91978eb3fe965d55084/travel/5990/DSC05387_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
“綠篠淪漣”。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/8d32247e1b606c859af37e0377d34e40/travel/5990/DSC05388_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/1a5a5b734e6bf6b337f1398f53c592df/travel/5990/DSC05392_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
苍翠掩映的玉版桥。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/d2f2312720994ac55db2ff16c4fc29c4/travel/5990/DSC05393_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/8286220f153395f2a6e96f2a0be272b5/travel/5990/DSC05394_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
钓鱼台,以前江南文人墨客聚会或弹唱之处,乾隆来了后觉得适合钓鱼,因此改名。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/dab7b7ec352cfae5fd392bf8a65c5ca1/travel/5990/DSC05395_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
这里琼花似雪,故名“琼枝玉树”。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/8dae00fd1b0e8b910b477f7bbc045375/travel/5990/DSC05402_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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远处便是扬州最富盛名的五亭桥和白塔。关于白塔有一段传说,乾隆第六次南巡时看着湖景,说,可惜少了一座白塔,不然看起来和北海的琼岛春阴就像极了。听者有意,扬州盐商们立刻花了数十万两银子买来设计图,当晚连夜用盐包堆了一座白塔,到了次年再改建了真正的白塔。白塔和五亭桥之间有凫庄,乃四面环水的小岛。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/bcf393f90775b810ee5978a720a553de/travel/5990/DSC05408_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
绿杨阴里五亭桥。《望江南百调》中提到:“扬州好,高跨五亭桥,面面清波涵月影,头头空洞过云桡,夜听玉人萧。”
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/165dbe4956a7654f7f610689407040ff/travel/5990/DSC05422_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
天气炎热,便在树荫下找了两张藤椅躺下来,吹着风儿望着花团锦簇外的金碧辉煌。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/d9a967e384f835fb32256eaed671a994/travel/5990/DSC05438_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/e6487b916bf2b4d9ebe8258e911df78f/travel/5990/DSC05433_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/7e9952bcd9c28498d484b41d483c81cd/travel/5990/DSC05435_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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绿树掩映下的古朴。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/ada52c4378b66e1e8dd1127686aa8ac9/travel/5990/DSC05437_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/07698f3fd13129670fb073ace95132eb/travel/5990/DSC05444_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
与皇上一家合影要不要。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/8fb20b6ab7065184ba9651ce7ad3ee58/travel/5990/DSC05445_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/1c4fd4fac96bd077922228714211203e/travel/5990/DSC05454_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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熙春台,扬州“二十四景”之一的“春台明月”便在此,乾隆庆母60大寿建。毛泽东在此题杜牧诗《寄扬州韩绰判官》:“青山隐隐水迢迢,秋尽江南草未凋。二十四桥明月夜,玉人何处教吹箫。”
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/2b0e0df07ccb393078441be21679a409/travel/5990/DSC05474_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
二十四桥,乃是80年代恢复。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/aa859b76918e6d0e4d1e4c052f67978b/travel/5990/DSC05475_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/8aba38f785cc67373cc9f333bc74452b/travel/5990/DSC05498_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/83f7bee21e582fa252d38f8ec3e2a1d9/travel/5990/DSC05502_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
石壁流淙,是祖籍歙县的盐商徐赞侯的私邸。乾隆到此后曾感慨“柳堤系桂双,散步俗尘降。水色清依榻,竹声凉入窗。幽偏诚独擅,揽结喜无双。凭底静诸虑,试听石壁淙。”如今的石壁流淙是90年代修复的。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/edfd838886f324c580905083c53b5c64/travel/5990/DSC05503_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/017cd44c5c922a33b86ac3dbe7513d2c/travel/5990/DSC05505_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/01eaeabb0a9c0b933807e52a9e34beaf/travel/5990/DSC05507_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/320d29b29257f70c6582227d9b5ec662/travel/5990/DSC05509_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/38ac9bb2314091be3bd2709d43f35aaa/travel/5990/DSC05511_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/e712770fd1fdcd6e9a0784bdb4470694/travel/5990/DSC05514_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
已经颓圯的新杨桥(1966年造)。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/1ac1b8a39debfebeac77cbefa982eebf/travel/5990/DSC05520_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
在新杨桥一侧又建成了现在的新杨桥。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/08e2bc55408a5d2b33d5ce837138ee2e/travel/5990/DSC05523_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
桥对过,是花海。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/2d1c6daded07c8d4f1285bd192712646/travel/5990/DSC05526_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/8243014396eaed56377fd0cfe6ee2387/travel/5990/DSC05527_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/370dac17192c417af2895f86b446d969/travel/5990/DSC05531_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
远远望见栖灵塔。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/e3b15d12084432b10fd6b13219ddfa6c/travel/5990/DSC05536_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/e3a0b1649ff7fcf17fa1ca52e3210ddd/travel/5990/DSC05534_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/b0ad01ceab10397dfd9314f6d3d6078a/travel/5990/DSC05550_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/1c04062a43c4fe7e1a2620c3b70925ff/travel/5990/DSC05554_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
不知不觉走到北门,栖灵塔和大明寺近在眼前。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/b52694316ab35401e9280d4fdbd871df/travel/5990/DSC05566_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/e4b955778b325156f1a5bcf2d1b309c3/travel/5990/DSC05572_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/e43a03b38447a28c0526cb523e5d0f68/travel/5990/DSC05574_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
走累了自我犒劳一个蓝莓冰激淋。
![](https://synyan.net/202407271121/8b9a13122533650c8c6e47331486bece/travel/5990/DSC05579_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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走完这一段,发现还有东边的宋夹城、北面的唐城遗址、西北的大明寺、栖灵塔和鉴真纪念堂都来不及去了,感叹瘦西湖比之西湖,丝毫不瘦,更见风致!借用下叶先生的诗:
读月楼诗存
叶千华
三月烟花渡瓜洲,满路春风景物稠。
五亭桥影系人意,二分月明惹我羞。
长堤柳舞游客兴,白塔云飞寄君愁。
不知岁月留得住,可见时光逐行舟。
老虎,我又发现了一个事情,你的相机颜色真好看,我喜欢,颜色柔柔的,还给人以真实的感觉~
我把照片也给福哥看了,他也要去扬州,我们以后要是去的话,就来问你要一个该去的地方的 LIST 的哈 😀
先谢 😀
@Wei Juan这是SONY的。颜色的话我是用RAW源格式拍的,后期再转成JPG发在网上,这样细节会比较多。List我现在就给你咯:瘦西湖、宋夹城、唐城遗址、大明寺、史公祠、个园、何园、东关街。
静香书屋应该是金农写的吧。
@轩易匾额上是金农落款。
那年去扬州,我最后悔的是没有去大明寺。特别是看了陈从周怀念梁思成的文章。
琼花又叫聚八仙,貌似扬州人赞誉得不得了,可惜我也没有在扬州见到过。
@语之留下点遗憾才能在下次找机会再去吧