夫嘉业藏书楼,南浔刘承干书楼也。书痴一生,千金散尽,藏书百万,名闻海内,天一阁叹不如也。其内中西合璧,书楼栏杆,法国造也。清帝溥仪题赠“钦若嘉业”金匾,亦不能书尽承干藏书之功。古来书痴多,贫贱者固不移,承干豪富不淫,入园必赠书,善矣。胶卷摄之,是以为记。
——自题
南浔是湖州属下一个县,与乌镇极为相近。南宋以来已是“水陆冲要之地”,所谓“耕桑之富,甲于浙右”,曾因滨浔溪河而名“浔溪”,后又因浔溪之南商贾云集,屋宇林立,而名“南林”。至淳祐十二年(1252)建镇,南林、浔溪两名各取首字,改称南浔。由于蚕丝业的兴起,明万历至清中叶南浔经济繁荣鼎盛,民初已成全国蚕丝贸易中心,有“湖州一个城,不及南浔半个镇”之说,南浔由此一跃成为江浙雄镇,富豪达数百家,俗称“四象、八牛、七十二墩狗”,有着中国近代最大的丝商群体。
与太湖北部江苏的各州县相比,湖州等地的古迹保存的极为完整,这也全拜浙江人民对古文化的保守所赐。身为江南著名古镇之一,大约是因为离上海最远,南浔或许是水乡本色保留的最好的一个。它没有当今周庄的商业气氛,也没有当今乌镇的豪华做派,有的是纤陌交通,鸡犬相闻,居民区与风景区犬牙交错,一派乡土气息。那安静的乡镇,来往的人们所带来的一米阳光气息,仿佛回到我们那快乐的童年。
南浔市镇,清流石桥,黛瓦粉墙,绿柳拂水,红桃扑面。
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231121/03e0c251c58d5d9f06e2a7e95168314d/travel/37/20100417_NX1_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231121/59515150c6029f0ce23217d9fd9d1c0b/travel/37/20100417_NX1_004-1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231121/0eed71a2053dfd43cb803b503f3f9e30/travel/37/20100417_NX1_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231121/642f68687b47158dbf7d88126165677e/travel/37/20100417_NX1_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406231121/7adfdcfad75871f53f2706f656992e43/travel/37/20100417_NX1_007_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406231121/848e3632f86f1b117ee56c7939813ea7/travel/37/20100417_NX1_009_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406231121/1765cd39712d7d47b5e10aa0e12c336f/travel/37/20100417_NX1_010_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔小莲庄,是晚清南浔“四象”之首刘镛的私家花园,始建于1885年,后经四十年的经营,由其孙刘承干于1924年建成,由家庙、义庄和园林组成,分外园、内园,环绕着长廊曲桥、楼亭阁榭。外园的主体是占地十亩的荷花池,池畔有东西合璧的“东升阁”(俗称小姐楼),内园有一座用太湖石叠成的假山,按杜牧《山行》的诗意构筑。其门口有联云:“小园新开西南角,环抱唯应风月知”,其中风雅,庸人莫知。
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406231121/0f199fb96e6b6b0343b7ae63526a311b/travel/37/20100417_NX1_013_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406231121/c2808aa0dc5c7590f8ca5d8ebbaa07bf/travel/37/20100417_NX1_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406231121/09439a1c6fe70ad42258c58310277518/travel/37/20100417_NX1_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406231121/1326b5187a37ef66285984342a71034c/travel/37/20100417_NX1_020_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406231121/b70580fbd18b11ca959e6ee957f783fe/travel/37/20100417_NX1_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406231121/c67c11182f2dfdc4c8bedf226173adb8/travel/37/20100417_NX1_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄拓碑](https://synyan.net/202406231121/2b28a030a888ce64db9da6804fa26fee/travel/37/20100417_NX1_018_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202406231121/6fc5aa95b371010713e6b4f2175f6684/travel/37/20100417_NX1_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202406231121/0338ff7cb3468128786e033aee2061f0/travel/37/20100417_NX1_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木盆,想起了唐三藏](https://synyan.net/202406231121/9ddf77e4a0a3c461b35a452b0a41fe5e/travel/37/20100417_NX1_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄一角](https://synyan.net/202406231121/d191fdd9e5863f29ca70eed7b6d53589/travel/37/20100417_NX1_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![红花绿叶](https://synyan.net/202406231121/2c21515648143c43c233f2097d5591a2/travel/37/20100417_NX1_029_p_1-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202406231121/7a1eb5e04af239448918d57325d36a3e/travel/37/20100417_NX1_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
小莲庄内园,很有《山行》的感觉。
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202406231121/08643c403ef7b544f057d3a320e8f6c0/travel/37/20100417_NX1_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
太湖奇石堆砌的假山,千转百绕,怪石嶙峋,可以想象刘家的豪富。
![假山](https://synyan.net/202406231121/cc4e6625cbdc17c25457f1fa41f0c31f/travel/37/20100417_NX1_035_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![内园](https://synyan.net/202406231121/5a4e92c88e5e7acfc86ed9eded14ca2a/travel/37/20100417_NX1_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![假山山亭](https://synyan.net/202406231121/993439ac05b880c27b32e869b54e6829/travel/37/20100417_NX1_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄标志性的砖拱门](https://synyan.net/202406231121/89e4848139d93201e9eb76531fd72e9a/travel/37/20100417_NX1_039_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业藏书楼,“四象”之首刘镛的孙子刘承干于1920年至1924年建成,因清朝溥仪皇帝题赠“钦若嘉业”九龙金匾而得名。总体设计为中西合璧园林式布局,最盛时有藏书60万卷,共约16万册,其中不少为海内外秘籍和珍本,是江浙地区最大的私人藏书阁之一(超过宁波天一阁)。 刘承干书痴一生,千金散尽,搜得各类书籍半数百万,后全部捐献国家,千古传诵。
![嘉业藏书楼](https://synyan.net/202406231121/6f3527de8431b835f81a7101f644f83a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_007_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202406231121/367b29bea024e56f480fc31b8c807456/travel/37/20100417_NX2_001_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202406231121/8012f698e6588bd793ed7943d7e7b169/travel/37/20100417_NX2_002_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
藏书楼外,有河码头。
![河码头](https://synyan.net/202406231121/96837631c6feccc0f506029355591093/travel/37/20100417_NX2_003_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内部装饰,铁栏杆都是当时法国进口的铆钉结构,栏杆花纹是对称的“嘉业堂”三字,极豪华。
![嘉业堂](https://synyan.net/202406231121/a80aecc49dc755dafe3be4a4c46f8c5e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_008_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内,有溥仪题词“钦若嘉业”。
![](https://synyan.net/202406231121/7a23ff81cae76ec7b8b320938c9a288a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_011_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![诗华室](https://synyan.net/202406231121/7689adb5e266c9b7423344e66f7b0ed9/travel/37/20100417_NX2_009_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
出得嘉业堂,沿着春天的河岸缓行。
![](https://synyan.net/202406231121/f6d6ce76de677c2067a8a439aed373be/travel/37/20100417_NX2_013_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![海棠花盛](https://synyan.net/202406231121/e8f9fb92d37b5a6d2cb90e3ddd73f749/travel/37/20100417_NX2_016_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
“一河两街三桥”是南浔的桥。这些被南浔的河串起的珍珠,是南浔的珍宝。
![兴福桥](https://synyan.net/202406231121/a476e881ace573d2335615ada791f435/travel/37/20100417_NX3_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠桥](https://synyan.net/202406231121/978b8041f4069d49104dc695c31abd81/travel/37/20100417_NX3_011_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洪济桥](https://synyan.net/202406231121/51c7cb710a7e292d74e3c7999c752cac/travel/37/20100417_NX3_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![通津桥](https://synyan.net/202406231121/5764f045903998e526bcf965e1daa773/travel/37/20100417_NX3_022_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的小吃特产,也像一块块磁石,吸引着四方的游客。
![定胜糕](https://synyan.net/202406231121/f41442ebb23c02db8a5a42492220d40b/travel/37/20100417_NX2_014_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木棰酥](https://synyan.net/202406231121/d870ff2c00eab93d5acaf01b048b3f13/travel/37/20100417_NX2_017_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![扎肉](https://synyan.net/202406231121/e184b765380c9004fbe101d843d68485/travel/37/20100417_NX2_018_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![芡实糕](https://synyan.net/202406231121/f4586cd1c7b14d5cea41df180bc4e9b1/travel/37/20100417_NX3_004_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张石铭故居,乃是南浔“四象”之一张颂贤之孙张石铭所建,建于清光绪年间,占地4000多平方米,被誉为“江南第一巨宅”。宅院前面是中国传统厅堂,而后院却藏有西欧式洋楼,精美的砖雕、木雕、石雕、玻璃雕堪称“四绝”,并以绿树掩映。
![象门](https://synyan.net/202406231121/d70ca65db5c2a8c92ed49cf51eaa0e9f/travel/37/20100417_NX2_020_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![象门](https://synyan.net/202406231121/e8e56216830189bdbd7dd01f58df6434/travel/37/20100417_NX2_022_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202406231121/377208493da105e802936a8bcf91d58f/travel/37/20100417_NX2_023_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![宫灯](https://synyan.net/202406231121/244457425aea4784f7d72f34e642e5eb/travel/37/20100417_NX2_024_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202406231121/3f91e7aa745faf5faa407b4e2ad25f21/travel/37/20100417_NX2_025_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202406231121/1c96a2336322185f59356236f20a9d7a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_029_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202406231121/3f4308d6a4033244692c037fc5e4e361/travel/37/20100417_NX2_030_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![庭院深深](https://synyan.net/202406231121/c16bfe22e0fd8fb19ef7c1367037cfe8/travel/37/20100417_NX2_031_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
地面法式的鹅卵石,绿树掩映中的欧式风格,皆不足为外人道也。
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202406231121/e571e07fd7bea6c1edbca9df18694ac7/travel/37/20100417_NX2_032_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202406231121/59b5ee43811ccbda655435879c19bca2/travel/37/20100417_NX2_033_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔,春至花开。
![春色](https://synyan.net/202406231121/1a41cbd2cac9295ca2bd811802330f92/travel/37/20100417_NX2_034_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![生记米行](https://synyan.net/202406231121/225869023507f67d9fa9aa8004ddc016/travel/37/20100417_NX2_035_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![寻常百姓家](https://synyan.net/202406231121/79c25261af5f392f07fb45f956212117/travel/37/20100417_NX2_036_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
在“水乡人家”古朴的街边小饭店歇脚,享受传统的南浔小菜。
![水乡人家](https://synyan.net/202406231121/97520985c00008afffd6982289670dd4/travel/37/20100417_NX2_037_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
江南人爱吃的(甜)青菜、茭白炒肉丝、太湖螺蛳,以及南浔特产千张百叶。
![南浔小菜](https://synyan.net/202406231121/aaaa6a449740b70f33b3921537d61104/travel/37/20100417_NX2_039_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
求恕里,是嘉业堂藏书楼主人刘承干于1930年所建的别墅。诚如上文所说,刘承干书痴一生,淡泊名利,不求仕进,即使到了晚年家道没落也坦然自得,以“求恕居士”自居。他在上海储书处号“求恕斋”,南浔别墅称“求恕里”。
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406231121/30b95bc506b64cf94a7050096a30eeac/travel/37/20100417_NX3_003_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406231121/7f75128eda3db2b321773509f84c33eb/travel/37/20100417_NX2_040_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406231121/1d82ae52adef044f6d774905595b103b/travel/37/20100417_NX3_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔史馆,曾被用作南浔商会,现为老干部活动所。
丝业公会,旧址位于南浔镇南东街90-91号,为南浔商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。丝市为当地最著名行业。清同治四年(1865年)即有同业组织,仿上海设立丝业公所。光绪二十八年(1902年)购地建造会馆,落成于民国元年(1912年),费银八万余元,名丝业会馆。民国5年(1916年)改称丝业公会,成为南浔镇商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。会馆的大门上,至今仍有英文书写的SILK GUILD横额。会馆大厅称“端义堂”,为抬梁式木结构,屋顶为歇山顶,高15米,用料考究,气宇轩然,是南浔现存最高的厅堂建筑,于2011年1月被列为浙江省文物保护单位。建筑前面四柱为整条长方形条石,厅内宽敞,可设宴席54桌。过去每年4月在此开“蚕王会”全镇丝业从业人员数百人,在此聚会祭蚕神,祷当年蚕事茂盛。大厅南北地坪均以大青石砌面,石上凿有各种图案。大厅南北也保存各种图案。大厅南北两侧保存着两间西式洋房,原系办公室;大门前原有一对青石狮,今移至张王庙前。会馆建筑除前屋在抗日战争时被炸毁外,其余均保护良好。
![丝业公会](https://synyan.net/202406231121/090881d566fc55fa15d0bd1c2d056d8d/travel/37/20100417_NX3_016_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
广惠宫,是南浔的道教圣地。
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202406231121/4648252655fc46f8d74166ab1f4ef775/travel/37/20100417_NX3_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202406231121/5421cd7dcdd6f590d508f6fd4faca867/travel/37/20100417_NX3_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张静江故居。奇人张静江是南浔巨富,曾因与孙中山在舰上一席谈话而决定投身革命,无数次资助国民党,连老蒋也要拜这尊大佛。
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202406231121/223dbb215ac379ee5190462b3c67f21b/travel/37/20100417_NX3_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202406231121/6f287a028d391b52e0e7af4bb376a9f9/travel/37/20100417_NX3_027_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
刘氏梯号(“红房子”),是南浔“四象”之首刘镛的三子刘安泩(字渊叔,号梯青,曾赏戴花翎,为正一品封典)的居处。据史料记载,此地明时为富户庄允城所居,其子庄廷鉞曾在内建“百尺楼”为藏书读书处,清初“庄氏史案”后,刘梯青于光绪三十一年(1905)从钱氏购地筑宅,于同年冬破土,光绪三十四年(1908)竣工。此堂最独特之处在于,其中部虽为典型的中式建筑,但南、北部建筑融入西欧罗马式,地砖墙柱皆为欧式,尤其北部立面最为壮观,高敞恢宏,完全超出了其他人家欧式小楼掩掩藏藏的格局。一位乡绅能做到这样的豪华,在中国史上也不多见。这里也曾一度作为民国浙江省政府主席官邸。
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231121/c757fc3b17312d04225ed20532e251a6/travel/37/20100417_NX3_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231121/03981708fa2fecf7aa3e9f13be971412/travel/37/20100417_NX3_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231121/f8352dfce9d8ac5823ca37356fca3aa0/travel/37/20100417_NX3_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231121/53a58663578c89267b38b3b7459d6f98/travel/37/20100417_NX3_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231121/43a5b4a7585db764ac5f09f9359415fe/travel/37/20100417_NX3_038_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的豪华让人难忘,但其实让我更难忘的,不是上面这些豪宅名人,而是南浔的街头巷尾,普通人家……
![老街](https://synyan.net/202406231121/e173e6e831f5db05b7371a2e084c0e98/travel/37/20100417_NX3_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![老街](https://synyan.net/202406231121/90d61ca16898d9a73894912fc7220591/travel/37/20100417_NX3_017_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洗衣妇,墙上“活画”乃南浔特产](https://synyan.net/202406231121/9be442a877461663527b443973e21790/travel/37/20100417_NX3_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![河岸](https://synyan.net/202406231121/63a0c7b07caeae466fc362c91f903ea3/travel/37/20100417_NX3_021_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔老街,每颗树下都有美丽的瓦当摆成图案。
![河岸人家](https://synyan.net/202406231121/74b6794af19ae47dac66f01e98bfba01/travel/37/20100417_NX3_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![旧制](https://synyan.net/202406231121/68ce40ab50bd7d61cadcbf9949408cb8/travel/37/20100417_NX3_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![卖荸荠的老人](https://synyan.net/202406231121/fee16e5ef631dc4f74e12a39ee3c0dca/travel/37/20100417_NX3_029_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![菜不用卖了,下棋要紧](https://synyan.net/202406231121/dfce79bc7dc63feca3cbb10697f4c539/travel/37/20100417_NX3_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
久违了的开水房,1瓶2角,2瓶3角,用的是边角木料,环保。
![开水房](https://synyan.net/202406231121/4d3454dea006d51436316319c51098e5/travel/37/20100417_NX3_032_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
闲适是南浔的主题,我想,这里也许是另一处桃源……
![](https://synyan.net/202406231121/ff911b0f436d93a0f339fa4b282d1714/travel/37/20100417_NX3_028_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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