夫嘉业藏书楼,南浔刘承干书楼也。书痴一生,千金散尽,藏书百万,名闻海内,天一阁叹不如也。其内中西合璧,书楼栏杆,法国造也。清帝溥仪题赠“钦若嘉业”金匾,亦不能书尽承干藏书之功。古来书痴多,贫贱者固不移,承干豪富不淫,入园必赠书,善矣。胶卷摄之,是以为记。
——自题
南浔是湖州属下一个县,与乌镇极为相近。南宋以来已是“水陆冲要之地”,所谓“耕桑之富,甲于浙右”,曾因滨浔溪河而名“浔溪”,后又因浔溪之南商贾云集,屋宇林立,而名“南林”。至淳祐十二年(1252)建镇,南林、浔溪两名各取首字,改称南浔。由于蚕丝业的兴起,明万历至清中叶南浔经济繁荣鼎盛,民初已成全国蚕丝贸易中心,有“湖州一个城,不及南浔半个镇”之说,南浔由此一跃成为江浙雄镇,富豪达数百家,俗称“四象、八牛、七十二墩狗”,有着中国近代最大的丝商群体。
与太湖北部江苏的各州县相比,湖州等地的古迹保存的极为完整,这也全拜浙江人民对古文化的保守所赐。身为江南著名古镇之一,大约是因为离上海最远,南浔或许是水乡本色保留的最好的一个。它没有当今周庄的商业气氛,也没有当今乌镇的豪华做派,有的是纤陌交通,鸡犬相闻,居民区与风景区犬牙交错,一派乡土气息。那安静的乡镇,来往的人们所带来的一米阳光气息,仿佛回到我们那快乐的童年。
南浔市镇,清流石桥,黛瓦粉墙,绿柳拂水,红桃扑面。
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231053/3530b1ac662b4f7933bbb85c63356689/travel/37/20100417_NX1_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231053/1a82693c13a42443af8fede1052467a9/travel/37/20100417_NX1_004-1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231053/0a28de9e49227cbd9524abfcb85e00b3/travel/37/20100417_NX1_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔](https://synyan.net/202406231053/37dc5b96e90774284c8ef2182d01f0b4/travel/37/20100417_NX1_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406231053/5da6a81f1738f21bb570251c2326bebe/travel/37/20100417_NX1_007_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406231053/3c7ab4305a9e236cfd38be4810d3f967/travel/37/20100417_NX1_009_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![捕鱼翁与鸬鹚](https://synyan.net/202406231053/c40a7411ee0cbb8b95c891d2dce62e34/travel/37/20100417_NX1_010_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔小莲庄,是晚清南浔“四象”之首刘镛的私家花园,始建于1885年,后经四十年的经营,由其孙刘承干于1924年建成,由家庙、义庄和园林组成,分外园、内园,环绕着长廊曲桥、楼亭阁榭。外园的主体是占地十亩的荷花池,池畔有东西合璧的“东升阁”(俗称小姐楼),内园有一座用太湖石叠成的假山,按杜牧《山行》的诗意构筑。其门口有联云:“小园新开西南角,环抱唯应风月知”,其中风雅,庸人莫知。
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406231053/d97f5f450d4acba98ebb83a1ad26ce27/travel/37/20100417_NX1_013_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406231053/834ccdd563a253bba60b10212ac703b4/travel/37/20100417_NX1_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![南浔小莲庄](https://synyan.net/202406231053/a349d3abd9bfab120088527428a44120/travel/37/20100417_NX1_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406231053/8e2382cd7db002a8685129b1839d76fa/travel/37/20100417_NX1_020_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406231053/93891f5e8f7ae92364072b6c3693f443/travel/37/20100417_NX1_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄残荷](https://synyan.net/202406231053/e103610faddca528a7c606150cabc170/travel/37/20100417_NX1_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄拓碑](https://synyan.net/202406231053/bc0ae1f0bc593aada259ce4257d1e3a4/travel/37/20100417_NX1_018_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202406231053/65711cf5f72413563ff2758bb785b418/travel/37/20100417_NX1_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![乐善好施牌坊](https://synyan.net/202406231053/ea81af0331800454386fd161314a93fe/travel/37/20100417_NX1_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木盆,想起了唐三藏](https://synyan.net/202406231053/3dd59551ae1517f99a58b027084ccb05/travel/37/20100417_NX1_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄一角](https://synyan.net/202406231053/8a24ac812fd12f9e3931233284fd3ab6/travel/37/20100417_NX1_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![红花绿叶](https://synyan.net/202406231053/c3af75a23b9572980f4ed308cb34a501/travel/37/20100417_NX1_029_p_1-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202406231053/1ebba97d04b1ed012e2f87294716621c/travel/37/20100417_NX1_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
小莲庄内园,很有《山行》的感觉。
![小莲庄内园](https://synyan.net/202406231053/81f85d6ee64ac31b2f7cc205fad272dd/travel/37/20100417_NX1_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
太湖奇石堆砌的假山,千转百绕,怪石嶙峋,可以想象刘家的豪富。
![假山](https://synyan.net/202406231053/b54f3de92c4760af96fc71286e370bc8/travel/37/20100417_NX1_035_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![内园](https://synyan.net/202406231053/735a8be16bf94b09bd33f38a39fd0b37/travel/37/20100417_NX1_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![假山山亭](https://synyan.net/202406231053/8cc11aec8de68659472b113ff48d26eb/travel/37/20100417_NX1_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![小莲庄标志性的砖拱门](https://synyan.net/202406231053/94114d2dbef730e3eb335653a151c4b5/travel/37/20100417_NX1_039_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业藏书楼,“四象”之首刘镛的孙子刘承干于1920年至1924年建成,因清朝溥仪皇帝题赠“钦若嘉业”九龙金匾而得名。总体设计为中西合璧园林式布局,最盛时有藏书60万卷,共约16万册,其中不少为海内外秘籍和珍本,是江浙地区最大的私人藏书阁之一(超过宁波天一阁)。 刘承干书痴一生,千金散尽,搜得各类书籍半数百万,后全部捐献国家,千古传诵。
![嘉业藏书楼](https://synyan.net/202406231053/5f57fe804a20d78121eb2044207245dd/travel/37/20100417_NX2_007_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202406231053/d1c188ea7dc09bb6077539aef28d8f38/travel/37/20100417_NX2_001_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![嘉业藏书楼花园](https://synyan.net/202406231053/3320d501125be5449a7bd56b2dc2d25e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_002_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
藏书楼外,有河码头。
![河码头](https://synyan.net/202406231053/dee5740381899f3db9d8e442274c622e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_003_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内部装饰,铁栏杆都是当时法国进口的铆钉结构,栏杆花纹是对称的“嘉业堂”三字,极豪华。
![嘉业堂](https://synyan.net/202406231053/f79936b179d93ededbb21a27fa8c9461/travel/37/20100417_NX2_008_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
嘉业堂内,有溥仪题词“钦若嘉业”。
![](https://synyan.net/202406231053/b8b3b77928bd1f6fe9a29af1efa12ca3/travel/37/20100417_NX2_011_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![诗华室](https://synyan.net/202406231053/dd16bd964b22c00af8d62b53a7a634aa/travel/37/20100417_NX2_009_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
出得嘉业堂,沿着春天的河岸缓行。
![](https://synyan.net/202406231053/fa9f0a12e7bebf3ddec62e77f0bf19dc/travel/37/20100417_NX2_013_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![海棠花盛](https://synyan.net/202406231053/e206f34f7c21a54a0095716ebcc25b94/travel/37/20100417_NX2_016_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
“一河两街三桥”是南浔的桥。这些被南浔的河串起的珍珠,是南浔的珍宝。
![兴福桥](https://synyan.net/202406231053/bfc23a91fa790cf24ca0d05419603a65/travel/37/20100417_NX3_005_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠桥](https://synyan.net/202406231053/7ddbf85228033c85040999333f561a73/travel/37/20100417_NX3_011_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洪济桥](https://synyan.net/202406231053/94c153151482b339b53bd66778024594/travel/37/20100417_NX3_026_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![通津桥](https://synyan.net/202406231053/e7fb383d96f58408914fbb4039a8d2d6/travel/37/20100417_NX3_022_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的小吃特产,也像一块块磁石,吸引着四方的游客。
![定胜糕](https://synyan.net/202406231053/c5b4c5f33ef987251160984df813a39c/travel/37/20100417_NX2_014_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![木棰酥](https://synyan.net/202406231053/62c67795680fff7dc00be33628b91c71/travel/37/20100417_NX2_017_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![扎肉](https://synyan.net/202406231053/99079eb14de3280cfc8fc1fc9f9ada15/travel/37/20100417_NX2_018_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![芡实糕](https://synyan.net/202406231053/76288ebf18be0f6cf5d212007104d048/travel/37/20100417_NX3_004_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张石铭故居,乃是南浔“四象”之一张颂贤之孙张石铭所建,建于清光绪年间,占地4000多平方米,被誉为“江南第一巨宅”。宅院前面是中国传统厅堂,而后院却藏有西欧式洋楼,精美的砖雕、木雕、石雕、玻璃雕堪称“四绝”,并以绿树掩映。
![象门](https://synyan.net/202406231053/904ab4c80fd836940a8917fd9228d104/travel/37/20100417_NX2_020_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![象门](https://synyan.net/202406231053/73fd71cdb1933e82af241bb352c30c4b/travel/37/20100417_NX2_022_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202406231053/de7bd0eb81b4013e5c05e4e9aaa6c293/travel/37/20100417_NX2_023_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![宫灯](https://synyan.net/202406231053/e3faa9d9783c8335df9252587ea9cf7e/travel/37/20100417_NX2_024_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![月季](https://synyan.net/202406231053/38975c31e98f7b492a0bbeb14b6f95a9/travel/37/20100417_NX2_025_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202406231053/2a64fc98d12ae1cd32a10d0950e8ab5a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_029_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![雕梁画栋](https://synyan.net/202406231053/31e937e4f1b0d8d1b272f03b152032c1/travel/37/20100417_NX2_030_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![庭院深深](https://synyan.net/202406231053/1ca4dbf04cbcc7ad79456905c4879139/travel/37/20100417_NX2_031_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
地面法式的鹅卵石,绿树掩映中的欧式风格,皆不足为外人道也。
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202406231053/a8457ce64c5c40da8f4435da44870acb/travel/37/20100417_NX2_032_p_1_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张石铭巨宅](https://synyan.net/202406231053/a423ead172c83cd5990afded2220bf34/travel/37/20100417_NX2_033_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔,春至花开。
![春色](https://synyan.net/202406231053/243a31d5588c4d86a2f43fbc55b6ec70/travel/37/20100417_NX2_034_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![生记米行](https://synyan.net/202406231053/62f986643399f1919f0840b31dec52ff/travel/37/20100417_NX2_035_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![寻常百姓家](https://synyan.net/202406231053/082fae9fdee0ae74aee06ad60350901a/travel/37/20100417_NX2_036_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
在“水乡人家”古朴的街边小饭店歇脚,享受传统的南浔小菜。
![水乡人家](https://synyan.net/202406231053/79fd4c6203e5d1c42f90f5d32a5878b5/travel/37/20100417_NX2_037_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
江南人爱吃的(甜)青菜、茭白炒肉丝、太湖螺蛳,以及南浔特产千张百叶。
![南浔小菜](https://synyan.net/202406231053/a3099f28bd36922cb326a89a9aebc572/travel/37/20100417_NX2_039_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
求恕里,是嘉业堂藏书楼主人刘承干于1930年所建的别墅。诚如上文所说,刘承干书痴一生,淡泊名利,不求仕进,即使到了晚年家道没落也坦然自得,以“求恕居士”自居。他在上海储书处号“求恕斋”,南浔别墅称“求恕里”。
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406231053/b8ec1173e0fd00e6508429bef8ea8d2d/travel/37/20100417_NX3_003_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406231053/9f263080752c1a50bee8d05acc08937b/travel/37/20100417_NX2_040_p_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![求恕里](https://synyan.net/202406231053/48c3a3cec7c46ad289a83bf0af42251d/travel/37/20100417_NX3_001_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔史馆,曾被用作南浔商会,现为老干部活动所。
丝业公会,旧址位于南浔镇南东街90-91号,为南浔商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。丝市为当地最著名行业。清同治四年(1865年)即有同业组织,仿上海设立丝业公所。光绪二十八年(1902年)购地建造会馆,落成于民国元年(1912年),费银八万余元,名丝业会馆。民国5年(1916年)改称丝业公会,成为南浔镇商业组织中最早、实力最强的同业公会。会馆的大门上,至今仍有英文书写的SILK GUILD横额。会馆大厅称“端义堂”,为抬梁式木结构,屋顶为歇山顶,高15米,用料考究,气宇轩然,是南浔现存最高的厅堂建筑,于2011年1月被列为浙江省文物保护单位。建筑前面四柱为整条长方形条石,厅内宽敞,可设宴席54桌。过去每年4月在此开“蚕王会”全镇丝业从业人员数百人,在此聚会祭蚕神,祷当年蚕事茂盛。大厅南北地坪均以大青石砌面,石上凿有各种图案。大厅南北也保存各种图案。大厅南北两侧保存着两间西式洋房,原系办公室;大门前原有一对青石狮,今移至张王庙前。会馆建筑除前屋在抗日战争时被炸毁外,其余均保护良好。
![丝业公会](https://synyan.net/202406231053/befd0bd5aff04fd000c9a0f455783859/travel/37/20100417_NX3_016_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
广惠宫,是南浔的道教圣地。
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202406231053/2b2594de58d4efff99bb6fea1762f40d/travel/37/20100417_NX3_014_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![广惠宫](https://synyan.net/202406231053/32f0ed70f9006d9b1e652f4d57a0794d/travel/37/20100417_NX3_015_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
张静江故居。奇人张静江是南浔巨富,曾因与孙中山在舰上一席谈话而决定投身革命,无数次资助国民党,连老蒋也要拜这尊大佛。
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202406231053/2745931b9e8565f0e334631994bb7156/travel/37/20100417_NX3_025_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![张静江故居](https://synyan.net/202406231053/99ad907107f5180f00b9264030bbf59a/travel/37/20100417_NX3_027_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
刘氏梯号(“红房子”),是南浔“四象”之首刘镛的三子刘安泩(字渊叔,号梯青,曾赏戴花翎,为正一品封典)的居处。据史料记载,此地明时为富户庄允城所居,其子庄廷鉞曾在内建“百尺楼”为藏书读书处,清初“庄氏史案”后,刘梯青于光绪三十一年(1905)从钱氏购地筑宅,于同年冬破土,光绪三十四年(1908)竣工。此堂最独特之处在于,其中部虽为典型的中式建筑,但南、北部建筑融入西欧罗马式,地砖墙柱皆为欧式,尤其北部立面最为壮观,高敞恢宏,完全超出了其他人家欧式小楼掩掩藏藏的格局。一位乡绅能做到这样的豪华,在中国史上也不多见。这里也曾一度作为民国浙江省政府主席官邸。
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231053/4276f49789cd20082e679389082881eb/travel/37/20100417_NX3_033_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231053/b5076bf6feb13de680b91768079755d0/travel/37/20100417_NX3_034_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231053/3bd18bfaf3319abf664d3882bcfbbf2c/travel/37/20100417_NX3_036_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231053/8fbdf17ad724ce99c48c339ef80b85c8/travel/37/20100417_NX3_037_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![刘氏梯号](https://synyan.net/202406231053/d50a9b9bf5d4d42b49336c49230f3542/travel/37/20100417_NX3_038_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔的豪华让人难忘,但其实让我更难忘的,不是上面这些豪宅名人,而是南浔的街头巷尾,普通人家……
![老街](https://synyan.net/202406231053/2cec06f5127a6b7bfdfc628df9f3150a/travel/37/20100417_NX3_023_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![老街](https://synyan.net/202406231053/01a30e38411c0736f18e9353458cbe20/travel/37/20100417_NX3_017_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![洗衣妇,墙上“活画”乃南浔特产](https://synyan.net/202406231053/0117588cadd4b7c8cc15070e236b010b/travel/37/20100417_NX3_006_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![河岸](https://synyan.net/202406231053/62a1bc2230429f801799c18a3fa3997a/travel/37/20100417_NX3_021_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
南浔老街,每颗树下都有美丽的瓦当摆成图案。
![河岸人家](https://synyan.net/202406231053/1acdc8c8583b4eee4ca5a22df38d5df4/travel/37/20100417_NX3_024_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![旧制](https://synyan.net/202406231053/a225fca1ab227e19ab4a6d4b8fc5c19d/travel/37/20100417_NX3_031_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![卖荸荠的老人](https://synyan.net/202406231053/7569e97a75486de6ead3ce92dc71cfc6/travel/37/20100417_NX3_029_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
![菜不用卖了,下棋要紧](https://synyan.net/202406231053/4d00d11d19b8cfcc403cd105ac51c8a6/travel/37/20100417_NX3_030_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
久违了的开水房,1瓶2角,2瓶3角,用的是边角木料,环保。
![开水房](https://synyan.net/202406231053/0820060bfcd7bbacac8eb5b73fbd8c6d/travel/37/20100417_NX3_032_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
闲适是南浔的主题,我想,这里也许是另一处桃源……
![](https://synyan.net/202406231053/416cd67be5772e47842de4be85ca6692/travel/37/20100417_NX3_028_p-1.jpg?x-oss-process=style%2Fwatermark_webp)
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